CHOOSING A CAT
R. Roger Breton
Nancy J Creek
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Making the Decision
So! You’ve decided you want a cat, have you? Before taking the
plunge there are a few things to take into account. The first and
most important of these is so obvious, so self-evident, that we hesi-
tate to mention it, and wouldn’t were it not for the fact that it is
so often overlooked.
Your new cat will be a living, breathing, caring, cuddling, and fairly
intelligent member of the family with many special needs and desires,
not all of which are necessarily pleasant to fulfill. If you are not
ready to meet the requirements of being a cat person, then consider a
stuffed cat (polyester doesn’t shed and kapok doesn’t require a lit-
terbox).
The lifespan of a cat is typically fifteen to twenty years, all of
which will be spent as a member of the family: this is roughly the
same length of time a human child would be in residence. A cat is, in
many ways, a perpetual small child: it has certain simple but ex-
tremely necessary requirements (food, shelter, etc.), gives and re-
ceives love, provides pleasure and amusement, does certain household
chores (better than “other kids” at pest control, but lousy at washing
dishes), and, like most small children, minds when it wants to.
Unlike a small child, however, a cat doesn’t require a baby sitter,
doesn’t demand the latest in toys or fashions, and never needs ortho-
pedic shoes.
In effect, a cat provides a maximum of pleasure to its people with a
minimum of trouble, if only the people follow a few simple guidelines.
One extremely important thing to consider: never obtain a cat (or any
other living creature) as a gift for someone else unless you are
absolutely certain that the recipient really wants and is able to care
for it. Many a Christmas kitten is discarded in September when the
“new” has worn off and kittenhood is no longer evident. In a like
manner, never obtain a cat as a status symbol, or for any reason other
than love. Neither you nor the cat will be happy in the long run.
Choosing a Cat
When obtaining a cat there are several things for which to look: Is
it the desired breed? Is it suitable for your lifestyle? Will it do
well with other members of the household? Is it healthy? Is it
friendly? What is its past? Does it wish to be a member of your
household? And, last but far from least, are you ready to get your
new cat?
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Choosing a Cat Page 1
Be Prepared
Before obtaining your new cat, there are a few preparatory steps to
take. The first of these is paramount, do you have the needed arti-
cles?
The minimum a prospective cat owner should have in the way of equip-
ment is: food and water dishes, litter box, carrier, flea/tick sham-
poo, food, and litter. Prepare your prospective pet’s eating and
elimination areas ahead of time, the less hustle and bustle that needs
to be done during its first few hours in its new home, the better.
Crockery
Place your cat’s food and water in plain sight, but off the major
traffic pattern of the household. A corner of the kitchen is usually
satisfactory. Cats, while neat, are rarely Emily Post graduates, so
place the food and water on a washable surface, such as tile or lino-
leum.
By placing the food and water in plain sight, it will be easy for you
to check for their presence at any time (and harder to forget to
check), and will also instill in your cat the sense that eating is a
public activity. This last is especially important should your cat be
the indoor/outdoor type, which often has a tendency to bring home the
occasional snack. Trust us, it is far better to find half of a mouse
in the middle of the kitchen than behind the living-room sofa: the
latter usually being discovered by nose.
Most soft plastic dishes (polyethylene or polypropylene) exude chemi-
cals slowly, which your cat will be able to smell. This odor will
turn off most cats, besides which the exuded chemicals are often
harmful. If the dish has a slick, slightly slimy feel (as many plas-
tics do), or has a detectable odor, don’t use it.
Hard plastics, such as styrenes and their derivatives (Melmac, Mela-
mine, and similar materials) are good choices. Inexpensive hard
plastic dishes such as those designed for babies are excellent.
Stainless steel dishes are excellent, but do not use other metals such
as aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, iron, or non-stainless steels, as
they will often react with the food and water, producing oxides and
other chemicals which your cat will then ingest. One drawback to
stainless steel dishes are that they are light in weight. Only those
with a broad non-tip base should be used.
Glass or non-porous or glazed ceramic dishes are best all around, as
they are heavy and completely odor-neutral.
A simple rule of thumb can be followed here: buy only dishes that you
yourself would not hesitate to eat out of.
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Choosing a Cat Page 2
Food
The choice of food for your cat may be based upon several criteria,
the least of which is price. Commercial cat food comes in three
types: canned (moist), soft-moist, and dry, all of which are suitable
for feeding your cat. Do not feed your cat a diet of dog food or
people food: both lack certain nutrients that are essential to a cat.
Canned food has the most flavor, the highest price, and the most
offensive odors (to humans, not cats). As a rule, good canned food
contains a well-balance mixture of protein, fats, carbohydrates, and
minerals. Exceptions to this are the “premium” or “gourmet” foods,
which are often balanced for taste rather than nutrition. Be certain
the food you use as a staple (treats are a separate issue) has the
words “total” or “complete” nutrition, which are governed by law (the
word “balanced” is not).
Soft-moist foods have the advantages of minimal odor and long shelf
life. They are good for about a day in the bowl, and should not be
left out longer than that. Be aware that most soft-moist foods con-
tain an abundance of preservatives to prevent spoilage, so labels
should be read carefully.
Dry foods have two strong advantages over other types: very long
shelf and bowl life and an integral tooth-cleaning action during
consumption. Most commercial dry foods are complete, well-balanced
diets, though some brands, including at least one very popular nation-
wide brand, contain what in our opinion is an excessive amount of dye.
While shape is of importance to a cat, color is important only to
people (people, of course, are the ones advertising is aimed at).
One last note on foods: do not automatically be suspect of a catfood
that shows a high percentage of fat: cats require a lot of fat in
their diet. A well balance cat diet would turn the “other pet” into a
canine blimp.
Water
Water is vitally important for your cat. Always keep a supply of
fresh water to hand, especially if semi-moist or dry foods are being
fed.
All tap water should be allowed to stand for a considerable time (an
hour or two) before serving. This allows the chlorine we humans put
in our water to evaporate, thus making the water more palatable to our
furry friends. If you serve tap water immediately, don’t be surprised
if your cat decides that the bowl contains something not nice and
prefers to take its water from the “other bowl” in the small room with
all the porcelain fixtures, where the water has been standing for a
while.
An important note here: milk is not water and should not be substi-
tuted for water, even for kittens (after weaning, of course). Always
provide plenty of water.
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Choosing a Cat Page 3
The Litterbox
What goes in must come out, making the litter box an absolute necces-
sity. Any commercial litterbox is suitable, though covered litter
boxes are best for both esthetic and effluvial reasons. Place the
litter box in a quiet out of the way place, as cats like privacy when
the need arises.
Be certain the litterbox is sufficiently large for your cat. A too-
small litterbox will often cause an “overhang” problem. Your cat
should be able to enter the box and comfortably turn around in it.
This is especially critical with covered boxes. A rule of thumb
should be the width should be at least as long as the cat (not count-
ing tail), and the length about half again as long. Most boxes are
made on a 3:4 ratio (three inches in width for every four inches in
length), though some commercial boxes are as oblong as 3:5, while
others are as square as 4:5. All are suitable if large enough for the
cat.
An emergency or temporary litterbox can be easily made by placing a
shallow cardboard box of the proper size inside of a large trash bag.
After use, place the whole thing in another trash bag for disposal.
One cautionary note: if your new cat is a small kitten, don’t get a
litterbox with a “stoop” higher than the kitten can manage easily.
Don’t depend upon the kitten’s ability to jump to get it in the box:
remember it will have a full bladder or bowel, and jumping is not the
recommended activity at such times. In a pinch, a brick or block of
wood may be used as a stoop to assist the kitten into the box, allow-
ing it to jump out, but a temporary low-sided box is a better solu-
tion.
Any commercial cat litter, or even shredded newspaper, is satisfacto-
ry, especially for the short term. Cleanliness is critical. If the
box becomes filled with “cat exhaust,” your cat will be reluctant to
enter it (wouldn’t you?). In such cases, the carpet may suffer.
If at all possible, obtain a small quantity of soiled litter from the
breeder. This should be sprinkled over your new, fresh litter to
transfer the home smell to the new box. If for some reason it is
impractical to transfer soiled litter, watch your cat closely until
you are certain it has recognized the box for what it is. Usage is
the only certainty. If it starts to investigate a corner, pick it up
and transfer it immediately to the box while speaking softly and
petting it. After it has used the box, praise it highly: this is
much the same approach used to potty-train a human child, but is
faster and easier.
Travel
Do not attempt to travel with your cat, new or otherwise, without re-
straint: the best restraint is a good cat carrier. Never attempt to
simply hold your cat, especially a new cat who has not yet learned to
trust you completely. Always remember that a cat is still an animal
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Choosing a Cat Page 4
and cannot understand strange or loud sounds, rapid motions, etc. If
you are holding it and it panics, you may suddenly find yourself with
an armful of teeth and claws.
If you anticipate a lot of travel (vet trips count as travel), a
sturdy plastic carrier is best, and can be obtained from any pet store
and most breeders and veterinarians. An inexpensive cardboard carrier
can be used for short, infrequent trips. A cardboard box with ample
air holes can be used in an emergency.
If travel must be accomplished without a carrier or box, wrap the cat
securely in several layers of towel or a heavy pillowcase until it is
completely immobilized, then transport it with a hand firmly but
gently holding the scruff of its neck to prevent biting in the event
of panic. Talk constantly to the cat in a soft loving tone to relax
it as much as possible. The chances of panic in this case are in-
creased by the cat’s inability to move its legs. Under no circum-
stances allow a child to hold a cat so restrained, as the child may
actually lack the strength (or nerve) to hold onto the cat in a panic
situation: cats are surprisingly strong for their size and can often
escape from the grasp of an adult, much less a child.
If the cat is ill or injured, especially with broken bones, call your
vet immediately for advice on immobilization befor transporting it.
Choice of Breed
Of all the things to be considered when obtaining a cat as a general
pet, the least important is the breed. After all, when choosing a
friend, is it really important if he or she is blond or brunette? We
do acknowledge that there is something special about an all-white cat,
an all-black cat, or one with unusual markings. Likewise, each breed
has certain characteristics that are often very desirable: one would
attempt to take away our Abyssinian, Tut, at their own peril (and a
dire peril it would be).
For households with active children, especially small children, a
mixed-breed cat has a distinct advantage over its purebred cousins.
Children being children, they are often unintentionally cruel. The
mixed-breed is usually a heartier, sturdier animal than the purebred,
both physically and psychologically, and can often tolerate small
childhood cruelties and indignities (such as being carried by the neck
while dressed in doll clothes).
On the other hand, if your desire is to raise cats, the question of
breed is paramount. In this case, the choice becomes which breed and
which members of that breed to choose.
Suitability
Choose a cat suitable for your lifestyle. If you are an outgoing
individual and lead a fairly active life, you should choose a fairly
active cat such as a Siamese or Maine Coon. Conversely, if you are a
quiet or shy person, a Persian or Ragdoll might be a better choice.
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Choosing a Cat Page 5
If your lifestyle or business takes you away from home a lot, choose a
sturdy, self-sufficient cat such as an American Shorthair or Char-
treux. If you are housebound or suffer from limited mobility, one of
the tranquil breeds such as the Ragdoll or Turkish Angora, might be
best. In the matter of personality, the selection of a specific breed
of cat can be a good starting point in the overall choice of compan-
ion.
Adaptability to Others
Like any other creature, individual cats vary widely in their response
to adults, children, and other pets. As a rule, a cat will learn to
accept all human members of the household, though many will express a
definite preference for one particular human (and not always the
obvious one at that). Most cats will also adapt to other non-human
family members, such as another cat or “the other pet.” The period of
adjustment is usually from one to four weeks, though there are some
individuals who simply will not adapt, particularly if a territorial
dispute should occur.
When there are other pets, a new kitten will usually fair better than
an adult cat, and a neuter better than a whole animal (particularly
among males).
One other point: if a member of the family suffers from allergies or
respiratory disorders, a non-shedding cat, or even a hypo-allergenic
cat, may be a preferred choice.
Having the Decision Made for You
Occasionally, a cat may decide to adopt a human, rather than the other
way around. When this occurs, the human is faced with two choices:
fight or give in gracefully. A cat can be surprisingly tenacious
towards its adopted “owner,” often tolerating out and out abuse rather
than leave or, perhaps, admit it made a bad choice.
To be so selected is an honor. Unfortunately, it is an honor that not
all people appreciate. If you feel you simply cannot accept this
honor, it is best to transfer the cat’s devotion to another, rather
than to drive it away. If drive it away you must, then one of the
most successful yet humane methods is the white-vinegar squirtgun.
Cats loathe the taste and smell of vinegar, and it will do them no
harm.
If you can, take it in temporarily and try to find a friend or other
who would be willing to provide a loving home. Your veterinarian may
be of some assistance here, as he or she often knows of various adop-
tion agencies or individuals who will welcome the animal.
As an absolutely last resort, you may have the cat taken to your city
or county animal shelter. Be aware that most shelter cats are de-
stroyed after a short availability period. While most shelters these
days use a humane method of euthanasia, such as lethal injection,
there are still some shelters in the U.S. that use decompression, a
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Choosing a Cat Page 6
truly excruciating way to die (but very cheap).
Some shelters also ship excess animals to research laboratories.
While we appreciate the bona-fide need for animals in medical research
and recognize the valuable contributions such animals have given
mankind (witness insulin), we are also aware that much research is
profit or vanity oriented, such as that done by some cosmetics houses,
and would just as soon that cats not be involved.
The best alternative to the “you have been chosen” problem is to meet
it head on…and give in. Some of the all-time greats in catdom chose
their own humans, and that scruffy-looking alleycat scratching at your
back door may be but love and a bath away from being another Morris.
Once the newcomer has been accepted, it should immediately be de-
ticked (maybe), de-mited (probably), de-fleaed (almost definitely),
and taken to the vet for a thorough examination.
Health
One very important criteria for obtaining a new cat is to choose a
healthy animal. A sick or injured animal may appeal to your sympa-
thies, and may, in the long run, make an excellent and rewarding cat,
but be prepared for extensive veterinary bills and special handling
should the cat be seriously or chronically ill, injured, or deformed.
We feel that any condition in which the cat is in constant pain might
best be dealt with via euthanasia. A “special” cat, however, can be
much like a special child: extra love for extra care. Your veteri-
narian is the best one to advise you on making a rational and proper
decision concerning the adoption of an unwell animal.
Normally, you should check a prospective cat carefully before making a
decision to adopt, and reject any animal that is not “perfect.” This
is not always easy to accomplish, since adoption is primarily an
emotional experience and love at first sight is common between cats
and people (those who say you can’t buy love have never been to an
animal shelter).
The need to check the animal’s health goes up with its cost. Reputa-
ble breeders always offer a no-risk period wherein you may have the
cat examined by your own veterinarian, and always offer a reasonable
guarantee of good health, varying from two weeks to ninety days. Most
states also allow recovery through the courts, regardless of time,
should the animal have an undetectable chronic condition or birth
defect (a queen that cannot carry, for example). We have found,
however, that most courts limit recovery to a replacement or buy-back
of the animal, and by the time the case comes to court most people
have become so attached to their cat as to opt to keep it, even with
whatever condition it might have.
The Initial Examination
To make a preliminary check of a potential adoptee, start with its
behavior and appearance. In behavior, the cat should be alert and
responsive around strangers (you). It should be curious, cautious but
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Choosing a Cat Page 7
unafraid, and should come up to sniff an outstretched hand. Use no
incentives for this test: after all you’re checking the cat’s re-
sponse to you, not to a Kitty Munchie. After making initial introduc-
tions, the cat should permit itself to be petted and “skritched”
behind the ears.
When offered a string or piece of crumpled paper, the cat should show
curiosity and a willingness to play. A lack of interest may indicate
an ill or jaded animal. This is not super conclusive, however, as the
cat may be simply tired (which should show as yawns, cats not being
especially bashful).
In posture, the cat should walk smoothly, with no sign of limping or
favoring a foot, with tail erect and head high. A drooping tail
and/or head indicate a nervous or possibly ill cat. The play of
muscles under the skin, visible in shorthaired animals, should be
smooth and beautiful. If possible, have the cat walk over obstacles,
such as the lap of a person sitting on the floor, and observe the
placement of feet and overall stride. There should be no hesitation
or uncertainty in its movements even though the surface is irregular.
The legs and tail should be firm and strong, with no signs of scabs,
lumps, or tenderness. The abdomen and groin should be free from lumps
and swellings. Lumps, especially around the navel or in the groin,
may be indicative of hernia. The ribs should be easily felt, but not
obvious under the fur. If the ribs cannot be felt, the cat is proba-
bly obese: if obvious, it may be undernourished.
The anus should be relatively clean and dry, free from discharge. It
should be pink or pale brown: a red, swollen, or draining anus usual-
ly indicates diarrhea and/or a parasitic infestation.
The genitals should also be clean and free from discharge. In males,
a draining or swollen penis indicates a definite problem, possibly
urolithiasis or FUS. In females, a discharge may indicate a gyneco-
logical disorder. A reddish or slightly swollen vulva may indicate
the imminent onset of estrus (heat): the latter is a normal condition
for females in season.
There should be six to eight nipples (technically, there are eight,
but one or two sometimes don’t develop fully), all of which should be
small and pale pink in males, slightly larger in non-pregnant, non-
lactating females. In pregnant or nursing queens, the nipples will be
considerably larger and pinker, often with a definite “breast.” It is
not unusual for nursing queens to have an irregular breast pattern, as
each kitten picks a specific nipple for exclusive use, and any nipple
not chosen will dry up and lose its breast. In either males or fe-
males a tender or abnormally swollen nipple or breast may indicate a
possible blocked teat, mastitis, or gynecomastia, all of which are
problems.
The coat should be clean and glossy, free from fleas and other para-
sites. It should have a faint and spicy odor, slightly stronger in
males. A distinctly strong or musty odor may be a sign of problems,
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Choosing a Cat Page 8
possibly a fungal infection.
The feet and nails should be clean and strong, with no encrustations
and no soft or spongy pads. Beware of the cat with tender feet.
Polydactylism (extra toes) is common and poses no problem unless you
plan to breed the cat. Cats normally have five toes on each front
foot and four on each rear.
The eyes should be clear and bright, free from cloudiness or dis-
charge. A little easily-cleaned dirt in the corner is normal, but
sticky or encrusted dirt indicates a discharge, which could be a sign
of a blocked tear duct, conjunctivitis, sinusitis, or an upper respi-
ratory infection. The haw (third eyelid) should be fully retracted.
A visible or exposed haw indicates illness.
The ears should be clean and held forward, fully pricked or erect
(except, of course, for the Scottish Fold and American Curl, which
have unique ears). Beware the cat with a droopy ear or that shakes
its head or scratches at its ear, it probably has ear mites. A dark
or waxy encrustation or discharge in the ears may also be a sign of
ear mites. While ear mites are relatively easy to control, it is a
time-consuming process and is likely to spread to other animals in the
household. The symptoms of ear mites may also be produced by other
parasites or other forms of otitis.
The cat should respond to a sudden behind-its-head and out-of-sight
clap of the hands by darting forward a few feet (getting out of dan-
ger) then turning to identify the sound. A cat that promptly disap-
pears is overly nervous.
White cats with blue eyes are often deaf. A deaf cat may make a very
good pet, but must absolutely be kept indoors. Be prepared for a
seemingly aloof cat, as it will not respond when called (the true test
of a deaf cat versus an aloof one is a lack of response to the “cat-
signal,” commonly called a canopener).
The nose should be slightly moist and cool to the touch. It will
seldom be as wet as that of the “other pet,” and on occasion may be
dry, especially immediately after a face washing, but should always be
cool. A hot nose may be a sign of fever and, since cats rarely have
a non-specific fever (unlike humans), may be a sign of severe disorder
or illness.
The nose should also be clean and free from discharge or encrustation,
either of which may be a symptom of upper respiratory infection.
Obviously, since cats seldom use a tissue, there may be a small amount
of residual encrustation, especially inside the nostrils where the cat
cannot reach.
The mouth is usually pink overall, with no coating on the tongue. In
some individuals, the inside of the mouth may be pigmented, making
assessment more difficult. The teeth should be clean and white with
no excessive tartar buildup and the gums should be firm and pink.
When lightly pressed with the tip of a finger (not the fingernail),
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Choosing a Cat Page 9
the gums should be pale under pressure and promptly return to normal
when the pressure is released. Abnormally pale, bluish, or red or
dark gums, or gums the bleed when pressed or return to color very
slowly, may be a sign of gingivitis, periodontal disease, respiratory
distress, toxicity problems, or other illness.
Except immediately after eating, the breath should not be unpleasant.
Bad breath, especially sour breath, can be a sign of mouth, respirato-
ry, or gastric problems.
The palate should, like the rest of the mouth, be a healthy pink. It
should not be cleft. Cleft palate is a common but serious birth
defect.
The teeth, especially the canines and carnassials, should be firm and
unbroken. When very gently tapped with a pencil, there should be no
pain (evidenced by a sudden violent jerk of the cat’s head): the
presence of pain indicates possible abscesses. Missing or broken
incisors are of no consequence, as long as there is no pain, since the
cat doesn’t use them for much and can get along quite nicely without
them (the only “damage” is cosmetic, but we’ve never yet met a cat
whose vanity required false teeth).
History
Once your layman’s examination has determined that the cat is probably
healthy, you should check into its past. Has it had its shots? Which
specific shots of which specific vaccines? Obtain a copy of the shot
record, if possible. Has it been tested for feline leukemia and the
feline immunodeficiency virus and is it FeLV and FIV negative? If it
is FeLV or FIV positive, you should perhaps think twice before bring-
ing it into contact with any other cats you may have.
Also important is identification of any kittenhood illnesses, in-
juries, etc. Basically, an entire medical history should be obtained
whenever possible, as this will assist the veterinarian in his/her
evaluation of overall health.
A casual check into its family history, personalities and sizes of its
parents, longevity of its immediate ancestors, etc., will give a good
indication of its ultimate personality, size, and lifespan.
Choosing a Veterinarian
Choose a good veterinarian. First and foremost, be certain that
he/she is a fully license and certified Doctor of Veterinary Medicine
(DVM). Avoid any “veterinarian” who is the least bit reluctant about
showing his/her credentials. Like other doctors, most veterinarians
proudly display their credentials on their office walls (and rightly
so, considering the years of study and training they require).
In some areas, the local “vet” may not be a doctor, but rather a
“natural” or “holistic” healer. Such people are not veterinarians and
may not legally call themselves such. While some of you as individu-
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Choosing a Cat Page 10
als may prefer a holistic approach to medicine (and such is certainly
your right and prerogative), such choices are matters of faith, and
entirely beyond the grasp of a cat. Use a licensed veterinarian.
The Veterinary Examination
If possible, arrange with your vet so that you may bring in the cat
directly from the breeder, original owner, animal shelter, or wherev-
er. Be prepared to leave the cat with the doctor overnight, if neces-
sary, until a complete physical and all needed tests have been per-
formed and the vet pronounces the cat fit. If the breeder does not
have an FeLV and FIV negative cattery, be certain to have the appro-
priate tests performed before mixing the new cat with your others (if
there are no others, the tests should still be performed, but the
urgency is gone). Obtain a fresh stool sample from the breeder so the
doctor may check for internal parasites (worms).
With a little care, a healthy mature cat can make a wonderful addition
to any home.
George or Georgette
One simple detail that many people overlook for one reason or another
is a determination of the sex of your new family member. It really is
rather simple. Be not embarrassed, the cat won’t care that you looked
at its “privates” (which are, after all, not private to other cats).
First, with the tail up and the suitable end towards you, the anus
should be easy to spot. The fur stops short of the anus at the White-
all line, forming a circular bald spot about the size of a shirt
button.
In a male cat, the scrotum, containing the testicles, is directly
below the anus. Except in white cats or white-and-colored cats with
white rears, the scrotum is often covered in short, fine, black or
dark brown fur. These “badges” are quite prominent in pale-colored
cats, such as the Siamese. In neutered males, the scrotum may be
smaller, but is usually still obvious. The penis is a little below
the scrotum, and is usually completely withdrawn in its sheath. The
tip is sometimes visible.
In a female cat, the vulva is directly below the anus. The anus and
vulva together form an inverted exclamation point. Again, except in
white cats, it is usual for the vulva to be covered or surrounded by
short, fine, black or dark brown fur. The exact shape of this fur
pattern will vary among individuals.
If you still cannot determine the animal’s sex, or for final confirma-
tion, ask your vet.
Heinz — Perhaps the Best Breed of All
One of the most maligned of all cats is the mixed-breed, or Heinz
(after the H.J. Heinz Company of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, famous for
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Choosing a Cat Page 11
“57 Varieties” of pickles). If there is one thing the Heinz does not
deserve, its the constant bad press.
What goes into the Heinz? Well, like all cats, it must follow the
rules of genetics and environment. What a given Heinz will be like
depends upon its basic stock, how many generations of interbreeding
and crossbreeding there have been, and the environment in which it has
been reared, with this last factor the most critical.
To illustrate the point, lets assume a single-father litter of four
marmalade (orange and white) toms. We would expect, then, that since
they all have the same basic genetic makeup, they should be pretty
much alike. Genetically, this may be true, but if each is raised in
an entirely different environment, we will end with radically differ-
ent cats.
Tom number one leaves the nest at an early age, and takes up residence
in a copse. He must survive by his wits, in direct competition with
skunks, raccoons, and the local feral cats. After, say, four years,
we could expect him to be completely feral, effectively a wild animal.
He would be completely untamable in the normal sense.
Tom number two also leaves the nest at an early age, but takes up
residence in an alley. He also must survive by his wits, but does
have constant exposure to mankind. After the same four years we could
expect him to be semi-feral, cautious and wary around man. If a
person were to show patience and kindness, especially in the form of
food, he could be won over, but would never make a good indoor-only
pet, as his roaming and territorial instincts would be fully de-
veloped.
Tom number three stays in the nest for a full twelve weeks and is
taken to a home as a gift for a child. Unfortunately, neither the
child nor its parents really care for the cat after the “new” has worn
off, even though it has a “good” home with plenty of food, clean
litter, proper medical care, etc. We would expect this tom to become
a housecat, aloof and somewhat cold with little interaction with his
human companions: no love given, no love returned. While he may be
friendly and not run when approached, he is definitely not a member of
the family.
Tom number four stays in the nest for a full twelve weeks and is taken
home by hard-core ailurophiles (such as your authors). We can expect
him to become a friendly, loving animal, full of life and vigor, and
constantly in the center of whatever the family is doing.
As we said, environment is all-important.
Assuming that you the reader are an ailurophile (if not, you’re read-
ing the wrong stuff), what can you expect your Heinz to be like?
Almost anything, which is part of the beauty of the breed!
When a child is born, its adult appearance can usually be determined
with some degree of accuracy by looking at its parents and grandpar-
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Choosing a Cat Page 12
ents (cousins don’t count, as they have other genes in their blood).
This will help determine its physical appearance, but what about its
personality? Again, look to its parents and, to a lesser degree, its
grandparents. As any psychologist will tell you, child beaters are
most often themselves beaten children.
The same holds true for kittens. Ignoring for the moment the physical
characteristics, which are, after all, easily determined, you can look
to its parents and grandparents for probable disposition (especially
its mother). A shy, fearful queen will raise shy, fearful kittens,
who may never become full-fledged pets, whereas a friendly, outgoing
queen will raise friendly, outgoing kittens.
All these possibly inherited psychological characteristics pale,
however, when confronted with environment. We once met a mean, vi-
cious Abyssinian, a breed known for its loving disposition. Baring
some gross physical ailment such as a brain tumor, only a human could
have made that cat that way (it was always a housecat, never feral or
semi-feral), and the human that destroyed the psyche of that poor
animal was himself mean and vicious, no matter how polite and smiling
he may have been.
On the other hand, one of your authors has spent years “gentling”
various Heinz cats into pets for the elderly, and in all that time has
had only one cat he couldn’t gentle: a black and white feral female
with a litter of very sick kittens. While the mother was unsalvage-
able, the sole surviving kitten, Brownnose, is still in residence.
There are a couple of distinct advantages of the Heinz over the pure-
breds. First, since they are mixes, they are not limited to any given
colors or patterns, creating a broad spectrum of truly unique individ-
uals.
Second, they are usually free (or nearly so).
It is hoped that those of you seeking a new cat will not overlook the
obvious charms and beauty of the Heinz, as they quite often make the
best of pets.
Kitten versus Cat
Choosing a kitten instead of an adult cat poses a slight variation on
the selection routine. The first thing to remember is that a kitten
is not a cat: it has differing needs, just as the needs of a human
baby are different than those of an adult.
Age of Separation
The first thing to consider in choosing a kitten should be its kitten-
hood: let it have one. Under no circumstances should a kitten be
taken from its mother and littermates before it is six weeks old.
Eight weeks is better and ten weeks is even better. Most reputable
breeders will not allow the purchase of a kitten before it is twelve
to thirteen weeks of age. Quite a range of ages: six to thirteen
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Choosing a Cat Page 13
weeks. How is one to know which is best? Twelve to thirteen weeks is
best, beyond doubt, but most people with an unwanted litter on their
hands aren’t willing to wait that long (to a breeder, it’s not an
unwanted litter).
During the first six weeks of a kitten’s life it is totally dependent
upon its mother (natural or surrogate). It is weaned during the sixth
week. To remove such a kitten from maternal care at age six weeks is
roughly equivalent to removing a human child from maternal care at age
2-1/2. Such a kitten (or child) is just not ready to make it on its
own.
Immediately after weaning, the mother cat begins her kittens’ life
training. By eight weeks, the kittens have learned that food must be
hunted and killed, that other cats are not always potential enemies,
and has advanced in intra-litter social graces. By ten weeks, the
kittens have learned the rudimentary basics of hunting and have begun
to fine-tune and develop their social skills. By twelve weeks the
kittens have developed a full set of social and hunting skills, lack-
ing only practice to perfect them, and are ready to begin leaving
home. In the wild, such sojourns are short trips, gradually increas-
ing in length until about age six months, unless another litter comes
along and they are driven out.
The thirteenth week required by most breeders allows them to be cer-
tain that the kittens have their shots and are sound of body and
spirit. The kittens’ inherited maternal immunities wear off during
the twelfth and thirteenth weeks, and if they are sensitive to some
endemic disease or virus, the illness will develop at that time. In
the wild only 30 per cent of all kittens born make it to adulthood.
Sexing a Kitten
Sexing a kitten is often much more difficult than sexing an adult cat,
and even the best of us may occasionally make the embarrassing error.
In male humans the genitalia are external at all periods during a
lifetime, but there have been initial errors made in the sexing of
newly born babies (really!); this in our own species, with which we
are most familiar. How much greater the possibilities for error in a
different species, and at that one where the obvious male genitalia
are internal in the very young!
In a kitten, especially a very young kitten, the anus and the genita-
lia are very close together. In six-week male kittens, the testes are
internal and the scrotum is often undeveloped. In this case the penis
(in its sheath) is the first “whatever” encountered below the anus,
and is typically about three-eighths of an inch below the anus, ex-
panding to about five-eighths of an inch by ten weeks. In appearance,
the anus and penis resemble a colon: one dot over another.
In six-week female kittens, the vulva is seen as a short line about
one-quarter of an inch below the anus, expanding to about three-
eighths of an inch by ten weeks. In appearance, the anus and vulva
form an upside-down exclamation point: a dot over a short line.
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Choosing a Cat Page 14
In some kittens, especially longhairs, the genitalia are often hidden
in the fur and are very hard to see clearly. This problem may be
eliminated by wetting the area thoroughly and parting the fur so that
the shape of the genital organ itself can be seen: a round dot for
males and a short line for females.
By twelve weeks the male’s testes have descended and sexing is as for
an adult cat (just smaller). The dark fur around the genital area
does not normally develop until puberty.
Cat versus Kitten
When it comes to selecting a new pet, the majority of people opt to
choose a kitten over a full grown cat. The reasons for this are, we
feel, rather obvious: kittens are cute, and kittens have not yet
developed any bad habits (presumably).
Both of these reasons disregard several basic points in favor of
adults. An adult cat has already made it past the deadliest time in a
cat’s life, the twelfth and thirteenth weeks wherein the mother’s
immunities cease and the kitten must make it in this germ- and virus-
laden world strictly on its own merits. As said before, only 30
percent of kittens survive in the wild, with about half of those that
die (35 percent of all feral cats) succumbing to post-weaning immune
deficiencies. In housecats the odds are about twelve percent for
death from this cause.
On a different but equally deadly basis, most adult cats in animal
shelters are doomed creatures unless someone adopts them.
An adult cat is a mature cat, and has already proven its survivabili-
ty. It is able to adapt to and cope with situations and things that
could be harmful to a kitten. Kittens are often seriously injured or
killed by such seemingly innocent entities as a swinging kitchen door,
which can easily break the neck or back of a small kitten should it be
caught between door and jamb.
An adult cat is often much better able to tolerate children, who,
without intent, often smother, choke, or squeeze a kitten to death.
An adult cat, being stronger, is able to get away from a serious
situation, or survive simply because it can take more squeezing.
Psychologically, an adult cat is stronger as well. If a child is
overly aggressive and should hurt a kitten, the kitten, being young
and unable to understand will often develop a homophobia towards
children or all of one sex of people. An adult cat usually knows
better and can soon put that aggressive child in its place (cat
scratches are a great object lesson and are rarely serious medically)
without permanent hostilities setting in.
As an aside on the subject of scratches: the proper treatment is a
thorough cleansing with soap and water, followed by the application of
a mild antiseptic, such as hydrogen peroxide, mercurichrome, iodine,
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Choosing a Cat Page 15
or an antibacterial ointment, and a covering of a light, breathable
bandage to keep dirt out. Check the scratches again in six to eight
hours. They should be well on the way to healing by then. In the
unlikely event there is inflammation or swelling, or if pain still
persists, foreign matter may have entered the wound and you should
seek medical attention for possible infection.
It is important to remember that kittens are children in their own
right, and therefore not responsible for their actions. They often
bite or scratch without even being aware that they are doing so, thus
inflicting unnecessary pain and injury upon their playmates, cat or
human. Other kittens have a layer of fur to protect them, human
children do not. Also, since such bites or scratches are unconscious-
ly inflicted, there is no aiming or care exercised, and injury can
occur to a lip or eye as easily as elsewhere. Adult cats usually
place their scratches (or bites) exactly where they “belong”: if they
are near an eye, it’s because the injury being done to the cat was
severe, so it was giving maximum warning. Cats have an instinctive
knowledge of the value of eyes, and an uncannily accurate aim. Except
under a literal life-or-death situation, a cat will not attack the
eyes, but may well place scratches aside an eye as a strong warning:
it is in effect saying, “see, if you continue to hurt me I could blind
you.”
An exception is, as with all animals (and a whopping lot of people,
too), unintentional injury done in panic. Don’t be caught holding a
cat or kitten in your arms when the neighbor’s dog decides to jump up
and bite its tail!
More seriously, a badly frightened or injured animal is dangerous:
never, never handle such an animal without protection and without
restraining it first.
For many people, a cat is often a far better choice than a kitten, as
its personality is fully developed and can be matched to that of the
human quite easily.
In summation, don’t immediately assume that because your pet is “new”
it must be new.
Hair and Dander
Allergies are caused by allergens, which are almost always proteins.
Common allergens are pollen, spores, hair, dander, oils, and saliva.
Ragweed allergies and other hayfevers, for example, are usually pol-
len-based, while a rash or other dermatitis (skin problem) is often
oil-based. The vast majority of people who are allergic to cats are
sensitive to either cat hair or cat dander (skin flakes). There is
also a very small percentage of allergy sufferers who are allergic to
cat saliva. Since cats groom themselves thoroughly, they are, in
effect, covered in a layer of dried saliva.
People or anything else suffering from allergies usually do so because
they lack some enzyme necessary to break down the offending protein,
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Choosing a Cat Page 16
or lack the mechanism necessary to produce the required enzyme. Most
humans are “allergic” to poison ivy because we lack anti-poison-ivy
enzymes: the ability to eat or even handle poison ivy was not neces-
sary to the survival of the human species and either never evolved or
was lost.
For those who are allergic to anything, cats included, the first step
should be a trip to a qualified physician specializing in the treat-
ment of allergies. Most allergies can be safely and effectively
controlled these days: medical science has made great strides in this
direction, and people who could only suffer a decade ago can live
quite normal, comfortable lives today. It is always better to fit the
world around you than to be forced to live in a small portion of that
world.
Should medical science fail and the individual be sensitive to cat
hair or dander, the obvious solution would be to avoid cats. We feel
this to be too great a sacrifice to ask of anyone if there is any
alternative at all. Fortunately, there are several breeds of cats
that qualify as hypo-allergenic.
In theory, such a hypo-allergenic cat would be non-shedding: the
shedding of hair and the shedding of dander are related, and will be
considered together. With only a single exception (the hairless
sphinx breed), cats are fur-bearing animals, and fur-bearing animals
shed: cats shed, period. The question is how do they shed and what
do they shed.
Cat Fur
Cats have four types of hair: vibrissae (whiskers), located on the
cheeks, over the eyes, beneath the ears, and on the elbows; guard
hairs, which are the longest and oiliest and give the coat its sheen
and water repellency; awn hairs, which are almost as long as guard
hairs and give the coat its density and color; and the short, extreme-
ly fine down hairs, which act as an insulating layer to keep the cat
warm or cool as conditions require. In a typical coat there are about
eight to ten times as many down hairs as awn hairs and about six to
eight times as many awn hairs as guard hairs.
Despite the vast preponderance of down hairs, almost all the hair a
cat sheds is awn hairs and guard hairs. When an awn or guard hair is
shed, it often causes a slight chipping of the dead skin around the
hair follicle. These little flakes of skin are dander. A cat, like a
human, may also suffer from a dermatitis or other skin condition
causing it to shed skin flakes not related to the shedding of hair.
Such dander is evidence of a medical condition, outside the norm, and
should be treated as such.
Non-Shedding Breeds
A few breeds, most notably the Rex’s (Cornish Rex, Devon Rex, Oregon
Rex, and Si-Rex), have few or no guard and awn hairs, and are classed
as non-shedding or hypo-allergenic cats. Another and unrelated breed,
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Choosing a Cat Page 17
the Sphinx, has virtually no hair (possibly a very short fuzz on parts
of its body), and carries non-shedding to an extreme.
Primitive Breeds
From an alternative line of attack, so to speak, those people who are
allergic to cat fur often find that either the Abyssinian or the
Egyptian Mau (the true Egyptian Mau, not the “Mau” or “Egyptian” cat
of Britain, which is really a spotted Oriental Shorthair) may cause
little or no allergic reaction. This is because these two breeds are
“primitives,” representing, as they do, the closest domestic breeds to
the original African Wildcat. (Both the Abyssinian and Egyptian Mau
claim direct and immediate lineage, with the Egyptian Mau’s claim
being slightly stronger.) Being primitives, they literally have a
genetically simpler hair structure, containing less complex proteins.
Evidently, as mankind bred cats for differing textures and colors, he
also unintentionally altered the very structure of the hair and creat-
ed his own problems (another example of it’s not nice to fool with
Mother Nature). People who are allergic to many things, including
cats, are often not allergic to Abyssinians and Egyptian Maus.
Hypo-Allergenic Breeds
If allergies are a problem, the breeds of choice should be the Sphynx,
the Cornish Rex, Devon Rex, Oregon Rex, or Si-Rex, or the Abyssinian
or Egyptian Mau, all of which also have the distinction of being
unique in appearance.
Do not seek the longhair version of these breeds, such as the Somali,
as the very trait you seek would be missing. For a similar reason,
mixed or partial breeds should also be avoided.
For people with only slight allergies, the difference between a shor-
thaired and longhaired breed may be sufficient (we wouldn’t be sur-
prised if a really sensitive person sneezed at the very thought of a
Persian). As the hair became longer and silkier, it became genetical-
ly more complex as well, and more of a problem for our noses.
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