PRE-BUILDING PLANS<\/p>\n
Before you start building your ramp make sure that you read and understand
\nthese plans completely. You’ve got to have a good feeling for what you are
\nabout to tackle or you will probably end up with a mess. There are some
\nimportant things to consider before you even decide what kind of ramp you are
\ngoing to be building. There is almost nothing worse than starting off on a
\nproject and finding out half-way through that you’re not going to be able to
\npull it off because you’ve blown-off or forgotten some important step along the
\nway.<\/p>\n
This is a big undertaking, don’t be embarrassed about asking for a little
\nhelp. Ramps are now popping up all around the country at an amazing rate,
\nchances are good that at least one ramp is already being ridden in your
\nneighborhood. Go check out a ramp that’s already built and see what kind of
\nproblems the owners have had with it, or get some good ideas for things to do
\nwith your own ramp. Also don’t be too proud to ask dad or some other adult for
\nhelp on the carpentry; every man alive likes to believe he is an accomplished
\nbuilder and will usually jump at the chance to pound a few nails. If you get
\ndad to help you, rather than letting the project turn out half-assed under his
\nsupervision, he will probably do all he can to make it turn out good. Who
\nknows, if he really gets into it he might even float a few bucks towards the
\ncost of materials. Then, when all the work is done he might appreciate more
\nthe idea of having this big wooden monster sitting in his backyard. You, on
\nthe otherhand, should have no problems appreciating this big wooden monster.
\nSkate tough or stay in a coma.<\/p>\n
Enough planning, it’s time to build some vertical terrain. First of all you
\nmust decide what your limitations are and how this will affect the ramp you are
\ngoing to build.<\/p>\n
Limitation Aspect #1. Location-probably the most important thing to resolve;
\nwhere are you going to put it?\tRamps can virtually be built anywhere.\tWe’ve
\nseen ramps of every description built in backyards, fields, orchards,
\nsidewalks, parking lots, rooftops, mountain sides and creek beds. First look
\nat the obvious spots, like your own backyard or a tolerant friend’s pad.
\nPrivate property with permission is best for obvious reasons. Putting up a
\nquarter pipe or lightweight structure is one thing, but sweating out a killer
\nramp only to have someone tell you to take it down is not happening.
\nWarehouses, garages and the like are good sites because they are level, indoors
\nand away from the elements (cops and neighbors). Check with your city or town
\nofficials in regard to public lands or park and recreation facilities that
\nmight be available. It is becoming more common for local governments to take
\ninterest in the skateboarder’s plight and build a public ramp, check into this
\nidea with your own.<\/p>\n
Ideally, for a decent sized half-pipe like the one described in this book,
\nyou will want to build on a fairly large, flat cement surface (patio, parking
\nlot, etc.) but a relatively level dirt or grass area will work fine. Be sure
\nand check out local ordinances regarding construction, you might need a
\nbuilding permit for the ramp you have in mind.\tKeep in mind that this is going
\nto be a permanent structure, once it’s done you won’t want to think about
\nanything but the next session, so make sure your facts are straight before you
\nfollow through with the construction.<\/p>\n
In most cities, the ordinances require that the structure cover more than a
\ncertain percentage of your yard, such as, 30% of the available open space. In
\nmany cases, making your ramp portable (or at least appear so) will help bypass
\nmany of the requirements, such as building permits, etc. Also, most city codes
\nspecify that no backyard structure can be higher than the highest point of the
\nhouse.\tCheck into it, once you know what must be done to build your ramp
\nlegally, you will most likely have to abide by some civil laws as well.<\/p>\n
It is very rare that all surrounding neighbors will put up with extended
\nnight sessions, trash floating around or boards shooting into their pool or
\npegging their backyard pooch. Because of the brash nature of skating and
\nskaters themselves, it is wise to inform your immediate neighbors of the
\npossibility of such goings on, and get a feeling for what you can and cannot
\ndo. Believe me, if you push your limits with them, the ramp will not last long
\nbecause the law will side with them almost every time.<\/p>\n
Limitation Aspect #2. Type of ramp you can afford to build.\tSo you’ve found
\nthe perfect spot; some old lady with a ranch outside of town craves the energy
\nof youth and has agreed to give you free reign of an acre of land with a nice
\nswimming hole and rows of pregnant apple trees, no problems there, but now
\nthere’s the question of materials. What do you have to build with?<\/p>\n
The materials you are able to get your hands on will basically tell you what
\nkind of ramp you’ll soon be ripping. Unless you have 20 or 30 sheets of
\nplywood lying around or a large stack of 2 x 4s you will probably be spending
\nclose to $1000 for your basic 8′ wide, 8′ radius transition half-pipe. Plywood
\nisn’t cheap and even though 2 x 4s do grow on trees they aren’t just lying
\naround, but there are ways of getting some free wood. Ripping off wood or
\nshopping at “the midnight lumber store” can get you busted. We’ve been hearing
\nsome real nightmares about young thrashers getting caught with a load and
\ngetting to see the legal system work first hand. The amount of lumber you’ll
\nneed for your ramp will probably constitute grand theft in most lawbooks so
\nwatch it. Don’t get stopped before you’ve even started. Check your own
\nbackyard or garage for wood and ask friends or neighbors if they have any.
\nAlso, hang around local construction sites and beg for cut-off ends and various
\nscraps, every little bit gets you one step closer.<\/p>\n
Wood is expensive if you have to buy it outright, but it’s plentiful enough
\nthat you can find a bargain if you shop around. Check the phone book for
\nsalvage yards that deal in used wood. Most of the time they’ll have all you
\nneed at a fraction of the cost. You may have to pull a few nails but it’s
\nworth it. When dealing with these guys try to to bargain for your final price,
\nyou might save yourself even more bucks by not agreeing to the first price they
\ngive you.<\/p>\n
Once you have assembled all you can feasibly scrounge, it’s time to start
\nputting it together. The hard part is over now, you realize your limitations
\nand you must now decide what type of ramp you’re going to build. You may find
\nthat because of one thing or another you are limited to building a smaller ramp
\nor quarter-pipe rather than a full-blown half-pipe. Don’t be discouraged if
\nthe ramp forecast looks bleaker than you imagined before, almost any variation
\nof most big ramp maneuvers can be pulled off on a smaller dimension ramp.
\nAlso, to the beginning verticalist, a smaller ramp is going to be helpful for
\ntraining purposes and will keep you shredding until you can move up to big
\ntime. Use what you can to ride what you’ve got; real skaters ignore
\nlimitations.<\/p>\n
CONSTRUCTION:<\/p>\n
Banked Ramps<\/p>\n
There is no reason why any skater who craves vert should be deprived of a
\nvertical wall or bank to skate. Even if you are flat broke there are things
\nyou can do. In reality all you need is a 3\/4″ thick piece of plywood and
\nyou’re in business. Whenever you get the urge to skate a bank just drag out
\nthat old piece of plywood and “set it up.”<\/p>\n
If you can get your hands on some 2 x 4s, try expanding on the banked ramp
\ntheme by building a frame for your piece of plywood. Starting with a “banked
\nramp” is a good way for the beginning skater\/carpenter to get into basic wall
\nriding and ramp construction at the same time.\tQuarter Pipes<\/p>\n
A quarter-pipe is just what it sounds like, a quarter piece of round pipe.
\nIf you can rustle up at least four or more 4′ x 8′ sheets of plywood and a
\ndecent supply of 2 x 4s you can throw together a small quarter-pipe that will
\ncarry you up to vertical. A cash outlay here will still run around $75 for new
\nwood.<\/p>\n
As far as transition from horizontal to vertical goes there are several ways
\nof constructing a quarter-pipe. One method is to build an L-shaped framework
\nsimilar to the one shown for the banked ramp, except that you create the curve
\nfor the transition with 2 x 4s. By cutting and fitting lengths of 2 x 4 into
\nplace you can make a solid curve and a foundation for the plywood skating
\nsurface. (Fig. 1) The thickness of the plywood for making this type of ramp
\nshould be no more than 3\/8″. Using two or three layers of 1\/4″ ply is
\nrecommended here for the optimum transition.<\/p>\n
Another method of quarter pipe construction involves the use of plywood
\ntemplates to form the transition and 2 x 4 cross bracing to support the skating
\nsurface. If you go ahead with this type of design, using the template method,
\nyou’ll need to look ahead to the plans for building a half-pipe for
\ninstructions on how to make templates using the string\/compass method.\t(Fig.
\n2)<\/p>\n
Regardless of the type of method you use to construct a quarter-pipe, the
\nradius of the transition should measure between 6′ and 8′. Also because you
\nare building a single sided ramp, you’ll be pushing into the ramp from another
\nsurface such as the street or sidewalk. In this case you want a smooth
\nconnection between the street and where the ramp begins. Try cutting the edge
\nof the plywood at an angle, where it will meet the asphalt, before you nail it
\ndown. Or, slap a thin strip of sheet metal down over the critical area, tack
\nit with small nails and finish it off with a length of silver duct tape to
\ninsure against flesh wounds if you have to slide over it. Half-pipe<\/p>\n
Here are the plans for building the basic minimum structure needed for
\nfull-on vertical skating (16′ wide, 10 feet of flat bottom, 8′ transitions with
\na foot of vertical, hence a 9 foot wall). These dimensions are commonly used
\nfor several reasons. One, plywood is widely available in 4′ x 8′ sheets and 2″
\nx 4″ and 2″ x 6″ studs are usually bought in 8′ and 16 lengths. Using lumber
\nof these dimensions will add up to a nice 16-footer without wasting cut-off
\nends and creating a lot of unusable scrap. Another reason for the 16-foot size
\nis that anything smaller is going to seem too cramped for full-on sessioning.
\nTwelve foot is passable, but if you go 12 feet, it’s almost easier to stretch
\nit out to 16 feet because of those standard lumber dimensions.<\/p>\n
Another point that we should review is that the methods we are discussing
\nhere for building a skateboard ramp will result in an ultimately sturdy
\nstructure. One that can be pummeled year after year without so much as
\nresheeting of plywood or masonite from time to time. If you have to take short
\ncuts because of lack of funds or materials, there are ways to cut back. The
\nsize of your ramp for starters. Smaller ramp; less wood. There is also a way
\nto make your transition templates using less plywood than we discuss here
\nwithout sacrificing too much in the strength department. We’ll try to cover
\nsome of these cost-saving tips as we get to them; otherwise, if you’ve got the
\nmaterials and the cash, build it big and strong, it’ll pay off in the long run.<\/p>\n
Once you have found a site to build on it is important to make sure it is
\nclose to level. Starting with a bottom framework that is level makes
\neverything else fall into place a little easier once you begin building
\nupwards. If you’re building on an incline or on otherwise shaky ground, you’ll
\nwant to sink 4″ x 4″ posts at least 2′ into the ground (preferably in cement)
\nand sticking up high enough at the low end to run a level beam between them.
\n(Fig. 3)<\/p>\n
If the ground is soft, build the framing on top of cement pier blocks placed
\nat the strategic corners. Posting also lifts the structure off the ground,
\nthereby keeping rot and insect damage in check for a longer period.<\/p>\n
Bottom Framework<\/p>\n
This is where the strenth and sturdiness of your ramp lies; the more solid
\nyour initial framework is, the longer your ramp is going to last. This part of
\nthe ramp will be completely covered up so make sure that it is solid before you
\nmove onto the next step.<\/p>\n
It is best to use 4 x 4s for the framework but 2 x 4s will work. Lay these
\nin a rectangular bo\ufffd th\ufffd siz\ufffd o\ufffd th\ufffd ramp I\ufffd ou\ufffd cas\ufffd i\ufffd woul\ufffd b\ufffd 10\ufffd of flat
\nbottom plus two 8′ radius transitions-26 feet long and 16 feet wide. Brace
\nthis structure with 2 x 4s spaced 6 inches apart under the flat section and a
\nfoot apart under the transitional areas. For more strength, support these
\nbracings with additional 2 x 4s as shown in the diagram. Place the 2 x 4s in
\nthe frame with the 2″ side facing up and sitting flush with the top of the 4 x
\n4s. The 2 x 4s will act as a solid base for connecting the plywood to the flat
\nbottom section. (Fig.\t4)<\/p>\n
Horizontal to Vertical Transitions<\/p>\n
The next step is deciding what radius should be used for the transition from
\nthe flat bottom to the vertical wall. The shorter the radius, the steeper the
\nincline, is the basic law. We chose an 8′ radius to a 9′ high wall for a fluid
\nyet thrustable transition to a foot of “true” vert. Larger ramps have been
\nbuilt with as much as a 9 or 10 foot radius. For larger transitions you should
\nplan on a higher wall to accomodate some vertical.<\/p>\n
To cut out 8′ transitions for your ramp you will need: a sabre saw, a piece
\nof string or twine at least 9 1\/2 feet long, a pencil and a nail. Make a large
\ncompass by tying one end of the string to the nail and the other end to the
\npencil at exactly the 8-foot mark.<\/p>\n
By securing the nail at one end (use a wooden stake in the ground if a nail
\ndoesn’t work), you can pull the string taut and draw transitional arc on a
\nsheet of plywood, (Fig. 5) (and you thought that geometry had no place in the
\nreal world).<\/p>\n
Using a half sheet laid down next to the full sheet, you should be able to
\ndraw one full transition. Using a sabre saw, cut out the template being
\ncareful to stay right on your pencil line. This is where the smoothness of the
\ntransition begins. To save time, use the first transition that you’ve cut out
\nas a pattern for the other transition pieces you will need. Or, apply the
\nstring\/compass method using a large piece of cardboard instead of plywood. By
\ndoing this, you’ll have a lightweight pattern that is easy to handle for
\ntracing and insures that each transition is the exact same radius.<\/p>\n
You will be able to save on expensive plywood without sacrificing the
\nstrength of your ramp by cutting transition “ribs.” To do this, draw an initial
\n8′ radius and then readjust your string compass to 9′ and draw another arc
\nright behind the first one. This will give you a foot wide piece of plywood
\nwith an 8′ radius arc on one side. These ‘ribs’ are then nailed onto the
\nframework to support the middle of the wall without using a whole piece of
\nplywood (Fig. 6). Full sheets of at least 5\/8″ plywood should be used for the
\ntemplates on the four outside corners.<\/p>\n
Connecting Templates to Framework<\/p>\n
Start by placing 4 x 4 posts in each of the four corners of your bottom
\nframework. For extra strength sink these 2 to 3 feet into the ground.\tThe
\nheight of these posts will be determined by how high you want your walls and
\nhow much vert.\tStart with posts 10 to 12 feet high; you can always saw off the
\nextra length at the top. Use a carpenter’s level to make sure everything is at
\nright angles and then brace the posts with 2 x 4s.<\/p>\n
Now you’re ready to nail the plywood transition templates to the sides of
\nyour framework. Connect the pieces of your templates together first, so that
\nthey form one whole 90 degree arc from flat bottom to vertical. Now position
\nthe completed template flush with the floor section of your framework and flush
\nwith the 4″ x 4″ vertical upright post and tack it on. Do likewise around the
\nfour corners of your framework. Now, for the tricky transition supports in
\nbetween the outer templates, you’ll want to build up some 2″ x 4″ framing that
\nyou can hang the transition ribs on. It is important here to make sure all
\nyour transition supports are in alignment with each other. If they’re not,
\nyou’ll find out when you start trying to fit in your cross bracing. Use a line
\nlevel to make sure before you start the cross bracing.<\/p>\n
Bracing<\/p>\n
Building the 2″ x 4″ cross bracing into your ramp framework is an important
\nstep because they supply the main support, as well as the nailing studs for the
\nplywood skating surface. The strongest method is to notch out the plywood
\ntemplates to accomodate a 2″ x 4″ cross brace so that its edge is flush with
\nthe ply edge.<\/p>\n
Make a notching “pattern” by using a full transition and tracing the end of a
\n2 x 4 onto the template. Do this at 6″ intervals at the bottom of the
\ntransition and continue up the wall. Once you are past the impact zone (the
\nlower 2\/3 of the transition) you can increase the distance between notches to 8
\nto 10 inches.<\/p>\n
By making a notching pattern, either of cardboard or plywood and tracing it
\nonto each of the transition templates, you’ll be sure that the cross bracing is
\nstraight from one side of the ramp to the other and more importantly, flush
\nwith the curve of the transition template. Cut out the notching with sabre saw
\nand lay in the 2 x 4s.<\/p>\n
These are plans for the framework of a basic half-pipe. Before you cover
\nwith plywood there are some things you might want to think about adding to your
\nramp. With the addition of stairs, vertical extention, coping, roll-out decks
\nand canyons you can turn this into a completely raging structure. Once the
\nplywood has been layed on ramp do your best not to even think about taking it
\nback up. Decide which extra features you want to add now and then move on
\ntowards the end. Besides being a complete hassle, pulling up a sheet of
\nplywood after its been nailed down is a great way to waste it.\tTombstones &
\nExtenstions<\/p>\n
A “tombstone” is really just an extension of the vertical wall of your ramp.
\nHaving some extra vertical footage on one side (or both sides) of your ramp is
\nnice for getting those extra gnarly sensations, there’s nothing like a
\nfrontside grind on top of a 12-foot wall with 3 1\/2 feet of vert. A tombstone
\nwill also give you that extra launch needed for airs and other bio tricks that
\nrequire an extra speed thrust.<\/p>\n
Building a tombstone into your ramp framework is easy. Just extend your wall
\nsupports above the ramp lip for as much vert as you think you can handle, brace
\nit up and ply it along with the rest of the ramp.<\/p>\n
If you want to add a tombstone to an already existing ramp, it’s a little
\ntricky because you’ll want to tie the extension into the subframing for max
\nstrength. Do this by prying up the roll-out deck, adding supports where needed
\nand secure solidly to the existing framework behind the ramp wall. A good
\nplace for an extension is on an edge or one corner of your ramp, because its
\neasier to brace there.\tOnce it is in place you’ll be able to use it to get
\ngood speed lines on the opposing wall of the ramp.<\/p>\n
Canyons and Rollout Decks<\/p>\n
Rollout decking is a must for any ramp. Most regulars will drop off the lip
\nfrom the axles or tail or just simply roll in from the top decking. It is also
\nmuch safer to ride with a rollout deck because you won’t go over the side on a
\nmiscalculated layback air or rock ‘n’ roll. To add on to your existing ramp,
\njust build a basic boxlike framework behind the transitions and cover with used
\nply.<\/p>\n
Roll-in canyons are sometimes rather difficult to install once your ramp has
\nbeen completed. The optimum channel width is 3′ wide, manageable yet
\nchallenging enough for ollie\/airs and channel plant type maneuvers. A 6 ft.
\nroll in radius is desirable. This allows you to comfortably drop into the meat
\nof transition.\tLearning fakie tricks on the wall opposite the canyon is easier
\nwithout having to start from a fakie rock ‘n’ roll position all the time.<\/p>\n
Build a channel opening just like a regular transition except upside down.
\nStart by cutting two 6′ radius transition ‘ribs’ out of some scrap ply. Fit
\nthem in on either side of your channel gap so that they flush up against the
\nunderside of the plywood near the top of the transition and under the rollout
\nplatform. Nail the ribs to the framework of your ramp, 2″ x 4″ cross bracing
\nin between, and you’re ready to ply down (Fig. 7).<\/p>\n
Coping<\/p>\n
Coping applications is a must for any skate ramp. One of the best things
\nabout coping is that it keeps the edge of your ramp from getting splintered and
\nground up. Not to mention making a ramp extra grindable with less hangups.
\nMaterials for coping are fairly plentiful as well as various in accordance with
\ndifferent tastes. Here’s a quick rundown of some of the more common cope.<\/p>\n
PVC plastic piping seems to be quite popular, plentiful and cheap. It
\nprovides a good sliding grind with or without truck protection and is fairly
\neasy to install. Rip a length (at least 4′) of 2″ PVC pipe right down the
\nmiddle and you’ll have two equal halves that you can work with. Drill small
\nholes for nails or countersink screws and secure it to the lip.<\/p>\n
Real pool coping is, naturally, an excellent choice for a ramp lip. It gives
\nyou that extra bite and just has a more comfortable feel to it. Some skaters
\nhave managed to salvage enough blocks from dirt filled or destroyed pools to
\nedge their ramps with, otherwise you can sometimes buy blocks at a pool supply
\noutlet or masonry yard.<\/p>\n
Lately we’ve been seeing some other variations on the coping theme. Angle
\niron, which is iron bar shaped in a 90 degree angle, has been showing up on a
\nfew ramps. It is easy to apply, provides an ultra durable lip cap that will
\nlast the lifetime of three or four ramps, if not forever, and provides a super
\nslippery edge for plastic and metal to metal grinding.\tArguments against using
\niron for cope is that it doesn’t grab well on handplant maneuvers and it hurts
\na lot more than something like PVC if you slip and slap your shin against it.
\nBut, you only live once.<\/p>\n
Stairs & Ladders<\/p>\n
You’re going to want to be able to get to the rollout deck of your ramp,
\nwithout running up the wall everytime.\tStairs are ideal, but they are also a
\nbitch to build right. Ladders are not as stylish but it doesn’t take much
\nexpertise to build one. All you need is two 2″ x4″s (minimum size for support)
\nthe same height as your ramp and about ten short pieces for steps. Support the
\nlong pieces and nail in the steps at whatever distance you feel comfortable
\nwith. If you’re still hell-bent on stairs go to the library and check out a
\nbook on carpentry, you should be able to find plans and put together a mean
\nstaircase.<\/p>\n
THAT IMPORTANT FIRST LAYER<\/p>\n
Let’s recap a few strong points that we’ve already covered. Before you even
\nthink of applying the first layer of plywood you should have solid
\nreinforcement in the framework and crosspieces of the flat, transition, and
\nvertical sections of the ramp.\tThe transition should have rigidly supported 2″
\nx 4″ cross members spaced, at the most, 6″ apart. The floor of the ramp should
\nbe just that: as close to a solid unit as possible. The optimum for this flat
\nbottomed section would be to build almost exclusively from lumber like a
\nredwood deck or patio.<\/p>\n
Another way to attain a completely rigid ramp floor is to construct it like
\nthe floor of your house with a cement block foundation supporting a solid
\nframework structure and the entire flat area covered with 3\/4″ – 1 1\/4″ thick
\nplywood. The next time you see a house under construction, stop and check out
\nhow the floors are made. It is a simple framework, with HEAVY DUTY plywood on
\ntop. You’ll want your floor as inflexible as possible.<\/p>\n
If your transition and vertical cross members are into notches in the
\ntransition templates, make sure they are solidly secured at each notch point.
\nGet on the side of the ramp and sight down the length of the framework. This
\nis important because you want the first layer of plywood to flush on each cross
\nbrace to achieve a flowing, ‘kinkless’ transition.<\/p>\n
There are a few things to keep in mind when designing the supporting
\nframework: 1) Floor area plywood pieces must always run lengthwise with the
\ngrain running in the direction of the skating (coping to coping). This means
\nthat the braces under these pieces should be positioned such that the plywood
\ncan be fastened lengthwise along the edges to these supporting braces.\t2>
\nWhere two pieces of plywood meet on the transitions there tends to be a certain
\namount of straightening of the pieces in the seam area because there are no
\ninternal shear stresses set up in the wood to hold it down. To remedy this, I
\nwould suggest placing extra support brace cross members on either side of the
\nseam supporting cross members to help hold down the edges of the plywood into a
\nsmooth curvature. 3) If you choose to construct the floor of the ramp with
\nlumber decking or heavy duty 1 1\/4″ plywood, you will only need, at the most,
\none layer of 3\/8″ on top of that and it should last a lifetime. With this in
\nmind, design the transition so that the layers of ply stack up to the height of
\nthis single layer on flat. There’s no use in putting three or four layers on
\ntop of a perfectly solid floor. 4) Get out the old geometry book and calculate
\nthe surface distance from the top of one side of the ramp to the top of the
\nother.\tThis will help you determine how much plywood you will need and it
\nshould give you an idea of the most efficient, economical way to lay it down on
\nthe framework to get the best use of the wood.<\/p>\n
Once you have achieved a strong, rigidly secured supporting framework, you
\nare ready to apply the all important first layer.<\/p>\n
Plywood is constructed with cross-grained layers of wood and therefore has
\nits strength in the lengthwise direction, because there are more plys running
\nin this direction within the piece of plywood.\tThe same principle can be used
\nin surface construction of your ramp by alternating each layer of 3\/8″ thick
\nplywood on your ramp: Make the first layer run lengthwise, the second layer
\ncrosswise and the last layer lengthwise again.\tThis will give the best
\nstrength and stability to the riding surface.<\/p>\n
If your ramp has a tight transition design you may have trouble bending the
\npieces of plywood (especially lengthwise) into the transition without cracking
\nor breaking them.<\/p>\n
To check for this problem, lay your plywood pieced down on the ramp so that
\nhalf are on the floor and half on the transition. Now, gently apply steady
\npressure to the piece.\tIf it can be flexed all the way down without stress
\nfracturing, then move it to the transition and try it again. Here you may hear
\na few creaks and groans as you ease it into place, but don’t worry unless it
\nreally sounds gnarly. Whatever you do don’t shove it down or have some idiot
\nstamping on it to jam it in place, it will break instantly. If the pieces of
\nplywood cannot be eased down gently and steadily into place without them
\nscreaming in pain, then you’ll have to soak them first to get them to comply.<\/p>\n
Do this by forming a shallow, flat bath out of a plastic tarp and soak the
\nwood for a day under water. Make sure you are using exterior grade plywood if
\nyou do this. A way to get around this problem if you are buying new plywood is
\nto look around for fresh, still damp exterior plywood at the hardware store or
\nlumber yard and purchase it the day you plan to surface your ramp. Bring it
\nstraight to the ramp site and apply it. You should have no trouble at all
\ndoing it this way.<\/p>\n
Make sure they are all positioned correctly and parallel. Now use dry wall,
\nsheet rock type, screws to secure down the plywood.<\/p>\n
It is crucial here to get this layer tightly secured and fitted against all
\nsupport members in the flat area and the transitions of the framework.\tTo do
\nthis now on the transitions, the screws must be applied in horizontal rows
\nworking from the bottom of the sheet to the top. Do not merely tack down the
\ncorners while holding down the sheet, then put screws in at random. This will
\nresult in a poor fit to the transition. Each row of sheets must be applied in
\nstep from the floor to the top of the ramp for the best fit.<\/p>\n
Make sure you pay attention to details during this first layer application.
\nSeams should be flush, with corners all joining at a point; sheets with cracks
\nand defects should be placed facing down and in the outer corners of the ramp.
\nYour strongest pieces should be put on the middle transition area.<\/p>\n
Sheets placed on crooked or gaps left between sheets will cause a compounding
\nproblem that will magnify as you go about laying down the rest of the first
\nlayer.\tDon’t be conservative with screws. The more screws you use, the closer
\nthe plywood will assume your intended transition, and the smoother and more
\nsolid will be your ride. Make sure all screws go into brace supports.\tIf
\nthere appear to be any soft spots, then replace that piece or build up more
\nsupports and bracing behind it.<\/p>\n
FINAL TOUCHES<\/p>\n
The second, third and each successive layer of plywood should be alternated
\nor criss-crossed when applied.\tIt will be much easier to lay these alternate
\nlayers but remember to line up all the sheets so that they are parallel and fit
\nwell together at the seams. Try not to align the seams of the second layer
\nover the seams of the first, in fact stagger it as much as possible for maximum
\nstrength.<\/p>\n
Check the smoothness of the surface, use sandpaper to smooth out any spots
\nwhere there might be splinter action. Check out where the sheets of plywood
\nmeet each other, check for nails or screws sticking up and for uneven surfaces.
\nCheck out the supports, stomp on the ramp and make sure it’s solid, give it a
\ngood enough beating that you can be sure it’s not going to come apart on you.<\/p>\n
Now that you’ve completed the basic structure, you may want to session it for
\na few days to get that initial buzz out of your system. For all intents and
\npurposes you are done, however, if you still have the funds there are some
\nthings you should do to protect the surface and insure your ramp’s long life.
\nThe dumpings of winter rain and snow and the scorching summer sun on some poor
\nramps can deteriorate all that nice wood fast.\tA little preventive medicine in
\nthe form of surface protection is going to go a long way to preserve your
\nriding surface.<\/p>\n
Painting is the cheapest way to protect your ramp’s surface, not to mention
\ngiving you a chance to personalize it with your art skills. Your basic enamel
\n(water base) exterior paint works best because it soaks in and dries fast. You
\nshould apply two thin coats rather than one thick coat, letting the first one
\ndry before applying the second. This will prevent the surface from becoming
\nslippery.<\/p>\n
Water sealant can be added to the layer directly beneath the top layer. The
\ntop layer can be coated on both sides and edges.<\/p>\n
Allow everything to dry for at least 24 hours before applying the top layer
\nto the ramp. This method works well with masonite and will keep water from
\nseeping in from behind during the wet months.<\/p>\n
One of the best surface coverings is SPAR urethane. This will make your
\nplywood or masonite top layer superfast and ultra-endurable. Apply two light
\ncoats then one heavy coat, allowing it to drip into all the cracks and seams of
\nthe surface layer. About 3 cans will do the job for a 16′ wide ramp.<\/p>\n
An expensive route, but one that, if done right, will stay for years is the
\napplication of 1\/8″ masonite shower wall on top of a layer of masonite or very
\nsmooth, high grade plywood. Shower walling is a thin, easily bendable, epoxy
\ncoated masonite that is 100% waterproof, and requires no screws or nails to
\napply.\tThere are dozens of surface designs available in any bathroom supply
\nsection at any hardware store.\tTo apply this wonder surface you will need
\nample amounts of epoxy-base glue, such as linoleum glue, or any strong
\nindustrial adhesive. Slap liberal coats onto each sheet and press with a
\nrolling pin into place on top of your top layer. Remember, this is a surfacing
\ntechnique, NOT a support layer. Shower wall will not increase the strength of
\nyour ramp at all. You must make sure your underplys are very strong and smooth
\nbefore applying shower wall. Once applied, you will have the hardest, fastest,
\nmost impregnable surface known at this point in ramp construction.<\/p>\n
NOTE: Any of the sealing methods must be done thoroughly so that water
\ncannot seep under the top layer. When this happens, the moisture will stay in
\nbetween the plys because the sealant won’t allow the top layer to breathe, thus
\nallowing it to dry out. The moisture will cause rot and mildew in the wood and
\nyou’ll have to tear it up.<\/p>\n
Now you have your ramp. Our best wishes go out to you and your new
\nstructure, may it be a long-term high-energy affair. If you have done the work
\nright, shown patience and not blown anything off, then all that’s left is the
\nride. Skate unconventionally but stay safe.<\/p>\n
OWNING YOUR RAMP<\/p>\n
Legality<\/p>\n
If you have dealt with the proper legal channels as mentioned in the
\nbeginning of this booklet and your ramp meets local construction ordinances,
\netc., then you should have little to worry about, the law cannot get you unless
\nsomeone makes a complaint. As mentioned before, your neighbors are the ones
\nwho can put a legal stop to your ramp riding. Bear down and do your best to
\navoid offending them and things will go much smoother for you.<\/p>\n
If the ramp is up by a neighbor’s fence, put up some kind of catch netting to
\nstop flying boards. If it is prone to be an eyesore, then paint the ramp a
\nsuitable color or nail paneling around the sides and back. The neighbors may
\ncomplain about the noise when the ramp is being skated. This noise comes from
\nunderneath the transitions. You can dampen this noise by stuffing foam rubber,
\nstyrofoam or insulation in the back between the support braces. Even a few old
\nsleeping bags tacked in place will help.<\/p>\n
Set a time limit for sessions and watch the volume of music if you play it.
\nA lot of neighbors don’t mind the noise but after twelve hours of skating and
\nrocking most non-skater’s nerves will grow thin. Put out a trash can for
\nlitter.<\/p>\n
Liability<\/p>\n
It is very important to realize that you are liable for any injuy that occurs
\non your property which includes your ramp. People in this country have a very
\nselfish tradition of blaming someone else if they take a risk and get hurt.
\nThey try to justify their injury by making someone else pay the price in cold
\nhard cash. With the amount of money-hungry lawyers out there who specialize in
\nlawsuits, charging no fee unless they win, it’s no wonder that everyone seems
\nto be getting sued. To avoid this fate yourself, you had better make it clear
\nto all skaters who ride your ramp that they are riding AT THEIR OWN RISK. Post
\na sheet of ground rules easily visible from the ramp. This will minimize the
\nchance that you and your family will be liable. Make everyone wear all safety
\nequipment, especially helmets.\tMany ramp owners require skaters to sign “Skate
\nat your own risk” type release forms to exclude them from liability. These
\nrules may seem tiresome and a pain but you are responsible for enforcing them.
\nIt is much better to skate safe, and have your friends do so, than to be
\nbattling in court or living in the streets.<\/p>\n
Finally, don’t let things get out of hand around the ramp. You, as the
\nowner, are responsible for keeping it under control, even if it means telling
\nsome out of line skaters to take off. Many times a new ramp will attract a
\ncrowd you don’t even know who make themselves right at home by barging into
\nyour house for a drink, pissing in your yard or severely thrashing your ramp
\nand property in a frenzied skate session. It is your right as the owner to
\ndetermine the who, when, where, and what of your ramp so don’t let yourself be
\npushed around, make decisions and stick by them.<\/p>\n
REHABILITATION OF OLDER RAMPS<\/p>\n
There will probably come a point after hours of sessioning and multiple
\nweather beating days, that you will have to make repairs on your ramp.\tIf you
\nhave taken care and preserved the wood with a protective layer then the repairs
\nshould only be minor, usually soft spots, kinks or spongy areas.<\/p>\n
A common “solution” to these problems seems to be slapping on more and more
\nlayers of plywood until it “goes away.” This can be very expensive and will
\nhardly ever work in the long run. We’ve seen the same weak spot resurface in
\nthe exact same place though more than 10 layers had been put on the ramp in
\nquestion.<\/p>\n
The way to fix these defects is by getting to the root of the problem, like
\nwhen you go the dentist: when you have a cavity, he makes sure he gets to the
\nbottom of it before he starts filling it. If he doesn’t, then you still have
\nthe problem. Most of the troubles on the riding surface are due to weak or
\nkinked transition structures, look behind the the ramp if possible, where the
\nproblem spot lies. You may find that the cross members are broken or weak at
\nthat point, and need to be braced. If it is possible to do this without
\nremoving any plywood, simply brace the bad cross piece with extra 2 x 4’s or
\nsteel brackets. Often the bad spot is impossible to get to from behind. In
\nthis case, remove all layers of plywood over the spot and support the frame
\nwork underneath. Always replace the plywood with new layers where the soft
\nspot has been repaired.<\/p>\n
When a plywood related surface problem develops, the best solution is to
\nreplace that sheet. A lot of funky methods are used to avoid doing this, like:
\ncramming the spot with wood chips and duct-taping it closed (works for about
\nthree runs), nailing a scrap of tin over the spot (usually more death than the
\nspot by itself), or chiseling out the piece of plywood that contains the spot
\nand nailing in another piece (extremely weak).\tReplace the entire piece of
\nplywood whenever possible. If the spot is small and replacing the whole sheet
\njust seems like a waste, then there are a few alternatives. The best thing to
\nrepair a hole or soft spot with in this case is something resin-based like
\nfiberglass. Chip the bad area open with a chisel and clean it out good. Now
\napply a filler like bondo or fiberglass layers to bring the hole up to the
\nsurface of the rest of the piece of plywood. Once this is dry, lay a piece of
\nfiberglass over the whole area to make it smooth. Be careful when using resins
\nto fix holes and soft spots, they set very fast when it’s hot, and you need
\nacetone to get the stuff off tools or your hands. Fiberglass sticks well to
\nthe wood on ramps and is far stronger than plywood so it will hold up well
\nunder punishment.<\/p>\n
Another ramp repair method that has been suggested is using a mixture of
\nElmer’s glue and fine sawdust. Once this stuff dries it can be easily sanded
\nand smoothed flush.<\/p>\n
Once again, when making surface repairs in the ramp, get down to the root of
\nthe problem. Most soft spots, kinks, and other defects are caused by flexible
\nor weak supporting structure (i.e., bent, cracked, or broken cross members), so
\nthis is where the bracing and additional support is needed. Do not neglect to
\nrepair all spots before they become dangerously large.<\/p>\n
Build strong and skate long.<\/p>\n
