Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
\nFrom: czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon)
\nSubject: Mera Peak (Nepal) Trekking Report
\nMessage-ID:
\nOrganization: Texas Instruments
\nDate: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 01:00:12 GMT
\nLines: 1017<\/p>\n
I publish the quarterly newletter for TI’s mountaineering club. The club has
\nmembers in North America and in Europe. Occasionally, I receive trip reports
\nfrom people who’ve completed once-in-a-lifetime climbs. Readers of this
\nnewsgroup contemplating a Himalayan trek should find this report informative.<\/p>\n
Cary Czichon
\nczichon@csc.ti.com
\n——————————————————————————<\/p>\n
Mera Peak (21,600 feet), Nepal
\n by
\n Chris Ellingham<\/p>\n
INTRODUCTION<\/p>\n
This is the account of a four week trekking expedition in November 1992 to a
\ntrekking peak, Mera Peak, in the Himalayas. I’ve written it chiefly as an
\nexpansion of the informal diary I kept with some additional explanatory
\nmaterial.<\/p>\n
The term trekking peak is a legal designation meaning that the Peak is one
\nof 18 mountains in Nepal between 18,330 feet and 21,830 feet which may be
\nclimbed by foreign parties upon payment of a small fee ($150 to $300 for a
\nparty of 10) to the Nepalese government and completion of a, comparatively
\nsmall, set of documents. Although all the trekking peaks can be reached
\nwithout technical mountaineering (we did) technical mountaineering is allowed
\nby the same permit. The permit requires that parties promise to observe
\ncertain rules – eg. on taking Sherpa guides and on the payment and insurance for
\ntrek staff – and to remove litter etc. Perhaps “non-expedition” would be a
\nbetter designation than “trekking”.<\/p>\n
By contrast there are another 104 peaks which foreign parties are allowed
\naccess to. These are for major expeditions and require a large amount of red
\ntape to be completed before a permit will be granted. The permits are also
\nconsiderably more expensive. The number of parties is rationed – I believe
\nthat there is a 10 year waiting list for Everest. Not all peaks can be legally
\nclimbed. Some peaks are sacred and no access is allowed.<\/p>\n
Our expedition was organised by North West Frontiers of Ullapool, Scotland.
\nThe company handled all local arrangements, flight bookings etc. All we had to
\ndo was to turn up in a reasonable state of fitness with suitable kit!<\/p>\n
As I hope you will gather from the account the expedition was not a grim,
\nsurvival experience but an extremely enjoyable month with a group of strangers
\nwho rapidly became good friends. Teasing and chaff was the order of the day –
\nas you will find below.<\/p>\n
This was my second trip to the Himalayas. My first, in 1988, was straight trek
\nwithout any real snow or ice work. The highest point we reached than was
\n16,800 feet. Andy (see below) led that trip too, and John was also in the
\nparty.<\/p>\n
DRAMATIS PERSONAE<\/p>\n
Andy:<\/p>\n
A professional trek leader with his own company, North West frontiers, which
\norganises walking holidays in the Scottish Highlands and Islands, and a number
\nof overseas trips (such as this one). A relaxed and knowledgeable leader.
\nJust about accepted designation of his assistant as Young Andy, but certainly
\ndidn’t like the suggestion of “Old Andy” for himself. Whoops, there goes any
\nchance of my negotiating a discount for the next trek!<\/p>\n
Young Andy:<\/p>\n
Another professional trek leader who works on occasions for Andy. An
\nexperienced mountaineer who has been on major expeditions in South America.
\nJoined us late in the trek to assist on the ascent of Mera. He came from
\nworking as assistant leader for a climbing party in the Annurpana area.<\/p>\n
Ian:<\/p>\n
A Scottish forestry manager in his late 30s who carried a St Andrew’s Cross
\nflag to plant on the summit. (Took a dim view of any suggestions that this was
\nan English party). An experienced walker in the Scottish hills, but this was
\nhis first visit to the Himalayas. His wife hadn’t joined the party, though she
\ninsisted upon his keeping a thorough diary. Instead she was off on a Caribbean
\ncruise with his sister after his return to Scotland.<\/p>\n
John:<\/p>\n
A personnel manager in his late 30s from Liverpool, and proud of it. He and I
\nboth went to the Himalayas for the first time, with Andy, back in 1988. He’s
\nreturned just about every year since then. This in fact was his third attempt
\nat Mera – the two previous attempts had been beaten by delayed flights and bad
\nweather.<\/p>\n
Kevin:<\/p>\n
Active retired accountant, who had re-discovered the joys of walking in
\nScotland with North West Frontiers. After that it seemed a natural progression
\nto him to join us on a trek to Mera.<\/p>\n
Rosemary:<\/p>\n
Another Himalayan first timer who was spending an extended vacation on the
\nIndian sub-continent. She’d been on a month’s meditation course in one of the
\nmonasteries in Kathmandu before setting out on this trek, and was going on to
\nIndia afterwards. Given to practicing Yogic Assanas in the morning long before
\nanyone but the kitchen staff were awake.<\/p>\n
An Kami:<\/p>\n
The “Sirdar” or trek boss. Responsible for all the local arrangements eg. food
\npurchasing, employment of other staff, and generally ensuring the trek ran
\nsmoothly. Young by traditional standards to be a Sirdar, but extremely
\ncompetent. Also a demon card player: we came to the realisation that he
\ndidn’t “pay” the porters, but just “lent” them money so he could win back over
\ncards. An exaggeration, but a grain of truth in it!<\/p>\n
Lapka and Nander:<\/p>\n
The climbing Sherpas. Vastly experienced with major climbs on the South face
\nof Everest, Annurpana etc to their credit. In character as different as chalk
\nand cheese. Nander the extrovert whose motto is “No problem!”. Lakpa the
\nintrovert, but, with an air of calm professionalism which inspired great
\nconfidence.<\/p>\n
Sanjay:<\/p>\n
The Cook. Had the ability to produce wonderful meals in the most difficult
\nconditions. (The food was so good that Andy’s store of “goodies”, intended to
\nmake up for any deficiencies in the cooking remained untouched until late in
\nthe trek. We only opened it then because Andy insisted it be eaten!) Revealed
\nthat he had already ascended Mera 4 times, but wouldn’t join us this time on
\ntop – he felt he’d seen the view enough times.<\/p>\n
Passang and Dawa:<\/p>\n
The Sherpas – a grade lower in status than the Climbing Sherpas. Responsible
\nfor guiding (ie. making sure none of us got lost) and acted as mountain porters
\n– ie. carried the tents up to our high camp on Mera. Both were cheerful and
\nresourceful.<\/p>\n
Kitchen staff and porters:<\/p>\n
A variable number accompanied us to carry the equipment and food. As the food
\nwas eaten the porters were paid off. Got to know a few names, particularly
\nthose who carried our kitbags. Mainly Sherpas but some Rai (another Nepalese
\ntribe). The most memorable character was Lapka Kitchen Boy (so called to
\ndistinguish him from Lapka Sherpa) who was never without a broad grin and a
\njoke. Obviously going to be a cook before long.<\/p>\n
Note – Sherpa. A confusing term! It is the name of an ethnic group who live
\n in the Khumbu region of Nepal. However, it also a “job description”
\n meaning a Guide in a party as opposed to the porters or kitchen staff.
\n Fortunately its generally clear from the context which is meant.<\/p>\n
A TYPICAL DAY<\/p>\n
(The timings are very approximate. Although I wore a watch I took very little
\nnotice of it.)<\/p>\n
06:30<\/p>\n
Woken in our tents by the Kitchen Boys with the traditional cry of “Morning!
\nTea? Milik? Sugcar?” Tea served to us in our sleeping bags. Bowls of hot
\nwater for washing brough round.<\/p>\n
07:00<\/p>\n
Breakfast is eaten either in the mess tent or outside, depending upon the state
\nof the weather and how urgently the staff need to get the tent down. Porridge,
\neggs (scrambled, fried or boiled) fresh chapatis with jam, and tea or coffee
\nwas the standard menu.<\/p>\n
Pack personal gear not required during the day into kit bags to be carried by
\nthe porters.<\/p>\n
08:30<\/p>\n
Start walking. Except on the ascent to the high camp on Mera we only carried
\nlight day packs containing stuff we’d need during the day – eg. camera and film,
\nrainwear, a spare fleece, and as we got higher, a down jacket to pull on when
\nnot actually walking.<\/p>\n
Except for the three days on the snow and ice of Mera itself we were walking on
\nrough, but generally well worn, paths. Lightweight walking boots were more
\nthan adequate – except when it snowed on the last day!<\/p>\n
A morning’s walking typically covers no more than 4 to 5 miles – though there
\nmay be 3,000 feet, or more, of ascent or descent. There are two reasons for
\nthis apparent slow pace: the altitude and the necessity not to become
\nseparated from the porters. The altitude slows one down because, obviously,
\nwith less air it becomes more tiring to walk at a fast pace, but also because
\nyou need to take it easily to allow your body to adjust. By far the most
\nfrequent cause of altitude sickness is climbing too quickly. Although
\naccustomed to the altitude the porters are slowed by heavy loads (can be as
\nhigh as 60 pounds) and poor footwear. (Some of the porters carrying rice,
\nmaize etc for local merchants are paid so much per pound weight of load, and
\ncan carry 120 pounds or more).<\/p>\n
Except on very steep sections, or on ice the party can spread out as individual
\npaces and desire for solitude, conversation or photo opportunities dictate.
\nThe only rules are “don’t get in front of the designated lead Sherpa, or behind
\nthe sweep Sherpa” and “if you need to relieve yourself, leave your pack on the
\ntrail then go off trail. Bury or, better, burn any toilet paper used – what do
\nyou mean you forgot to put any in your day pack!” Leaving your pack indicates
\nwhere you are so nobody else will try to use the same area and ensures that the
\nsweep Sherpa won’t go on without you.<\/p>\n
Temperatures started off in the 60s or 70s lower down during the day, and fell
\nas we got higher. On the morning of our ascent it was approximately -20
\ndegrees.<\/p>\n
11:30<\/p>\n
Lunch. An extended break which allows the Kitchen staff and Cook time to cook
\nthe lunch. Hot juice was always served (drink as much as possible is another
\nhelp for altitude acclimatisation. However, all water was boiled and\/or
\ntreated before we drank it!) Western style lunch was generally a selection of
\neasily cooked dishes from dried or fresh ingredients – eg. rice, pasta with
\nsalami (popularly known as Donkey Dick). Alternatively we could ask for what
\nthe crew are themselves “Dhal Bhat” – lentil curry and rice: ideal food for
\nclimbing in cold conditions on as it is an extremely rich in complex
\ncarbohydrates. Tastes pretty good too.<\/p>\n
The lunch break is generally taken by a stream or river which gives you a
\nchance to wash socks or underwear. If not dry by the time lunch is over just
\npin them to your pack. In the thin dry air clothes dry very quickly.<\/p>\n
13:30<\/p>\n
Start walking again.<\/p>\n
16:30<\/p>\n
Arrive at camp site, possibly to find tents already erected by the staff. In
\nany event they soon will be. Afternoon tea is taken (this is a British
\nexpedition!) with biscuits too. (More fluid and more carbohydrates).<\/p>\n
Chance to unwind, read, inspect feet for blisters etc. etc.<\/p>\n
18:00<\/p>\n
Supper. Similar to lunch, but starts with soup, and there is generally a
\npudding – normally canned fruit. But when there is enough dead wood for a fire
\nthe Cook may display his skill by baking a cake. Eaten inside the tent as it
\nis cold and dark by now. After 10,000 feet certainly glad of down jacket –
\nnoticeable that old hands have no silly “loss of machismo” inhibitions about
\nwearing then.<\/p>\n
Tea, hot chocolate and coffee to end the meal, and personal water bottles are
\nfilled with hot water, thus enabling them to act as hot water bottles in the
\nevening as well as your on trek drinking supply during the day.<\/p>\n
The remainder of the evening is spent in the mess tent round the Tilley lamp
\nchatting, playing cards, and drinking Malt Whiskey (for medicinal purposes).<\/p>\n
21:30<\/p>\n
Inside a thick, Down, sleeping bag, inside a small two-man tent. Except at
\nvery low altitudes it froze every night, and generally there was hoar frost on
\nthe inside of the tents when we awoke in the morning. It is extremely
\nimportant that your bag is good enough – cold nights lead to bad sleep and
\nexhaustion as the body work overtime to generate enough heat.<\/p>\n
Also important to remember to take a final pee before getting into the bag.
\nGetting up in the middle of the night is VERY cold, particularly if you’ve
\nallowed your kit to become disorganised so you can’t find your head torch.<\/p>\n
DIARY<\/p>\n
Day 1:<\/p>\n
London Gatwick to Kathmandu. Panic as I forgot to get off the train at Gatwick
\nand had to get off further down the line and get a Taxi back! Fortunately I’d
\nallowed plenty of time for mishaps. Remind myself that trips which start off
\nthis badly generally work out well.<\/p>\n
Met John, Kevin and Ian at the airport who had arrived in a less frenetic way!
\nThe Nepalese airplane was in for an extended service so we actually flew in an
\nIrish lease plane. Captain Murphy (I kid you not) did NOT inspire great
\nconfidence with his announcements – “Prepare for Take-Off” on approaching
\nFrankfurt, and later “we will be cruising at 53,000 feet”. The latter sounded
\nambitious, and was was corrected to “33,000 feet”. Didn’t ask what had
\nhappened to the Royal Nepalese aircraft – after the PIA accident at Kathmandu I
\ndidn’t want to know!<\/p>\n
Day 2:<\/p>\n
Arrival Kathmandu. Andy (leader) at airport. Wondeful chaos, diversity and
\nfriendliness. Downside – poverty and pollution. Met the other client,
\nRosemary, at the hotel.<\/p>\n
Day 3:<\/p>\n
AM Sightseeing tour of the temples etc. PM Visit to equipment hire shop. Met
\nwith Sirdar, An Kami. Frantic writing of postcards, and last minute sort and
\nrepack of kit.<\/p>\n
Day 4:<\/p>\n
Early morning start. Squeezed into a up-market tourist bus, a large Mercedes
\nminibus. Porters, Sherpas etc at back – clients at front. Luggage everywhere.
\nLong drive. Flatish to start with, passing through very forgetable townships.
\nLunch at Lamosangu with a spectacular “box grid” bridge over a river. After
\nthat the road deteriorated – steeper,more bends, better views and a gearbox
\nslowly giving up. Made it to Jiri.<\/p>\n
Jiri is a hole! At end of road – and making the most of the trekking trade.
\nMain advantage only 6000 feet vs. 10.000 feet start at Lukla if we’d flown in.
\nSlept in rough tea house.<\/p>\n
Day 5:<\/p>\n
Happy chaos in the morning as the porters were assigned their loads for the
\nfirst time. So fairly late setting out. At this altitude we’re strolling
\nalong in shorts and tee-shirts, with low factor sun cream on arms, legs and
\nfaces.<\/p>\n
Easy walk through Pine Forests to lunch at Shivalaya (5,800 feet) – this
\ndownhill can’t last. It didn’t. A climb to Sangbadanda (7,350 feet) where we
\ncamped. A fair sized village – very busy with trekkers. Large tea
\nhouse\/lodging house with plentiful supply of beer. Heard that a solo trekker
\nhad had her camcorder stolen from her tent – would have been unheard of in
\nNepal 10 years ago. An Kami had the Sherpas taking turns mounting guard duty
\nover night. In the dark I attempted to pick Dawa up thinking he was my
\nrucksack! No, he was just sitting there guarding it (plus the rest of our
\nkit). The other Sherpas found the idea of Dawa being taken for a rucksack
\nhilarious! I felt extremely foolish and resolved to carry my head torch in the
\nearly evening so I’d be ready for the sudden onset of dark.<\/p>\n
Also met a Scandinavian couple there on their way back from Mera. They told us
\nthat it had been very cold on Mera – the woman had suspected frost nip on one
\ntoe. Is this trip a good idea? However, they had succesfully summitted. They
\ndescribed the views as “fantastic” but the trail to the summit as “very busy”.<\/p>\n
Health good so far – have I escaped the Kathmandu Quickstep?<\/p>\n
Day 6:<\/p>\n
No I haven’t – feeling off colour and stomach “unhappy”. By end of day a
\ndefinite low grade fever and slight case of runs. Damn! For next three days
\nAndy keeps me entertained by reading extracts from his 1988 diary describing my
\nbattle with The Kathmandu Quickstep that time!<\/p>\n
John, who shared a tent with me throughout the trip, has a Walkman\/Radio and
\npicked up the early morning English language news from Radio Nepal. Learnt
\nthat Clinton had won the Presidential election last night – unsuccessful search
\nfor the American woman we’d met last night who was asking about the result. We
\nmay be in a wilderness area, but the Western world is still there.<\/p>\n
Already An Kami’s quality is showing and the assigning of porter loads went
\npretty smoothly.<\/p>\n
Continued climb towards our first pass (Bhandar Pass – 8,900 feet). Majority
\nof party ascended above the pass to a Gompa (Monasetry) and Cheese Factory
\n(sic) which served wonderful yogurt. I was taking things easy, and conserving
\nmy energy to fight off whatever infection I’d picked up, so waited for the
\nothers at the pass. I continued to be told about the “best yogurt we ever
\ntasted” for the rest of the trek. Decided I could go off fellow trekkers, as
\nwell as off the leader.<\/p>\n
Descended to Bhandar\/Chyangma (7,200 feet). Stupas, grass fields, and general
\nfeeling of really being on trek.<\/p>\n
Well, if I’m going to be ill I might as well be ill somewhere where there are
\nwonderful views! A new experience for me too – the low foothills of the
\nHimalayas, green and rolling, for miles and miles. Extend as far as the eye
\ncan see. No real sightings of the major peaks, except on the drive in, yet.<\/p>\n
Day 7:<\/p>\n
A steep descent to an early rest stop near Surma Kola. One of those perfect
\nresting places by a stream: plants all around us, a clear, blue sky and fast
\nflowing clear water. The less poetic amongst us seized the opportunity to wash
\nsocks! I amused myself by taking candid shots of the sock washers.<\/p>\n
An easy walk along the Likhu Kola river for a couple of miles followed. Bright
\nsunshine, and far enough off the main paths for there to be no litter, except
\nin the immediate vicinity of tea houses. Then came the exciting bit – crossing
\nthe river. From the map this seemed easy – a bridge. The more experienced
\nreserved judgement until we’d seen the bridge – some bridges here would give
\nIndiana Jones cause to hesitate! Well, it looked OK – wire hawser and plank
\nconstruction. Unfortunately it was under repair – most of the planks at the
\nfar side had been removed. We stepped gingerly across, hanging onto the
\nhandrails and checking that our feet were on solid planks. 50 feet below us
\nlay a swift flowing river about 100 feet across. As an additional complication
\nwe had to squeeze by the workmen who were busy attaching new planks.<\/p>\n
Lunch at Kenja (5,360 feet) – a very prosperous village. Making paper for
\nre-sale to Kathmandu. Very fine, almost tissue paper like. Used for
\ntraditional religious paintings, now for sale to tourists.<\/p>\n
A long steep climb to Sete (8,450 feet). 3.000 feet and 2 miles may not sound
\nmuch, but when you’re feeling like a slightly warmed up version of death its a
\nreal struggle. Sete is a small settlement with tea houses and a school. We
\ncamped in school house grounds. Most of the villages have a school now, some
\nfunded by a charitable foundation established by Sir Edmund Hillary. This
\nevening the first, of many, school masters came to solicit a donation.<\/p>\n
Meanwhile, I had retreated to tent immediately upon arrival to rest as much as
\npossible, while drinking as much as possible (water, honest!) to keep myself
\nhydrated. Disturbed by loud squawkings and much laughter. On putting my head
\nout of the tent learnt that tonight’s supper (a chicken) had escaped capture,
\nand one of her less fleet footed sisters had been captured and was about to be
\ncurried in her place.<\/p>\n
Day 8:<\/p>\n
Awoke feeling much better. Decided that fellow trekkers and leader were really
\nwonderful people – even if they do go on about yogurt and 1988 respectively!<\/p>\n
Ridge walk, though gently climbing through fir forest to lunch at Goyun (10,500
\nfeet). An Kami now has trek under full control and spent most of the break
\nplaying a board game which seemed to be a cross between pool, draughts and
\ntiddly-winks. Never did manage to understand the rules!<\/p>\n
A steep, but short, climb to the Lamjura Pass (11,580 feet). The pass itself
\nwas pretty barren and stoney. Also very grey, windy and cloudy so little view.
\nAfter the obligatory atmospheric shots of prayer flags against the sky, we
\nrapidly descended back into the forest where it was rather warmer. Amazing how
\nrapidly the vegetation, and temperature, changes with a small change in height.<\/p>\n
Continued descent to Tragdobuk (9,380 feet) where there was a very pleasant tea
\nhouse. (Question: why can’t we have nice tea houses in the British Hills?
\nMind you, I’d probably be the first to moan about ‘desecration’ if we did).
\nCouple of unusual sights: a wind assisted prayer wheel – I’ve seen water
\npowered prayer wheels before, but never wind powered. Also, the Buddhist
\nprayer – “Om Mani Padme Hum”, “hail to the jewel of the lotus flower” was
\npainted in bright primary colours on rocks by the trail. I’ve seen it carved,
\nand also occasionally painted in white, but never in colour. Maybe they filmed
\none of the Konica film ads here?<\/p>\n
Slight rise to collar of hill which gave a good view down to our campsite at
\nthe village of Junbesi (8,775 feet). Junbesi is an attractive village at the
\nhead of a valley, with an old and beautiful Gompa. After dropping our kit at
\nthe campsite Rosemary and I went to visit the Gompa: the standout feature was
\na wonderfully serene statue of the Buddha. Since Rosemary is a practicing
\nBuddhist and observed the correct rituals (plus we both contributed to the
\ncollection box) the old man who had opened the Gompa for us took us upstairs to
\nthe library. Amazing wood carvings showing visions of both Nirvana (the state
\nof enlightenment) and Demons. Also a large collection of old religious
\nscrolls.<\/p>\n
Lost any merit points towards my next rebirth which I may have gained from this
\nvisit, by seeking out the tea house and sharing a couple of beers with Ian,
\nJohn, Kevin and Andy. My first since day 5 – very welcome too.<\/p>\n
Day 9:<\/p>\n
Despite its comparatively low altitude Junbesi is something of a frost trap.
\nDefinite, but slight hoar frost on the inside of the tent when we awoke in the
\nmorning.<\/p>\n
An easy climb through forest to the Sallung ridge (10,000 feet). Shortly
\nbefore the high point, at Sallung (9,750 feet), we took an extended morning
\nbreak. So far we’d had few views of the high peaks. As we came round the
\ncorner approaching Sallung we found (yet another) tea house and a magnificent
\nview: with clear skies we saw a panorama of peaks, partially shrouded in
\nclouds, dominating the skyline in front of us. From left to right (after a
\ngood deal of map reading, argument in three languages (English, Nepalese and
\nSherpa) and several cups of tea we positively identified: Mount Everest
\n(29,032 feet), Kamtenga (22,241 feet), Tramserku (21,680 feet), the triple
\nsummits of Kusum Kangguru (highest 20,900 feet), Mera (21,600 feet) and Nau
\nLekh (20,876 feet).<\/p>\n
Kevin announced “Now I can die”, this caused some alarm until we discovered
\nthat he meant “now I’ve achieved my ambition and seen Everest”.<\/p>\n
Descended to Ringmo Khola (8,525 feet) -crowded picnic site – climbed through
\nthe Sherpa village of Ringmo, with visit to cheese factory and yogurt (“still
\nnot as good as we had a few days ago, Chris”) to the Traksindo Pass (10,125
\nfeet). Descended 500 feet to Traksindo monastery where we camped. (Very grey
\nand cloudy).<\/p>\n
Day 10:<\/p>\n
Trail descends through forests to the Sherpa village of Manidingma (7,200
\nfeet). Continued, steep, descent right down to the Dudh Kosi – Milk River –
\n(4,900 feet). Lunch at suspension bridge. Steepish climb through the terraces
\nof the Rai village of Jubing, including a small tea field, then “contoured”
\n(official description – reality lots of minor ups and downs?) to Kharikola
\n(6,800 feet) where we camped. Senior school with volleyball court. Still very
\ncloudy.<\/p>\n
Day 11:<\/p>\n
Awoke to clear sky. Short but steep ascent through fields, past Nandar’s home
\nto Pangkoma (an unspoilt village). Morning only trek. Lay about in the sun
\nreading etc. Across the valley was another Gompa – here monks were erecting a
\nnew prayer flag pole – with much banging of gongs, cymbals and drums.<\/p>\n
Day 12:<\/p>\n
Short climb to monastery. Surprised to be met by just one Monk in his early
\n20s who lived there alone. (The monks we saw yesterday had travelled up
\nespecially for the ceremony.) In his traditional robes (yellow shirt under
\npurple wrap around) and less traditional Nike trainers he showed us the prayer
\nroom. Monastery still under repair from earthquake damage of 2(?) years ago.
\nHe then guided us through the forest – bamboo and rhododendron – to rejoin the
\nmain path. An easy climb took us to the pass – Pankoma La (10,400 feet).<\/p>\n
Cloud had returned overnight and was obscuring our views of the South face of
\nMera. An early stop for lunch (10:30) at Shibuje. The shop here was the last
\none before entering the Hinku valley where there are really no shops: the laws
\nof supply and demand operate in Nepal too, so the prices, by local standards
\nwere extortionate.<\/p>\n
Marvellous, misty views down the Hinku but photos just didn’t come out – needed
\na tripod and LONG exposures. View across to tomorrow’s climb and subsequent
\nridge walk. Descended, very steeply indeed, to a small bridge (traditional
\nmaterials) across the Hinku Khola. The climb was advertised as “tough” to Gai
\nKharka. In fact, to make it even tougher, we climbed right up to next village
\n(better camping). The poorest areas we visited – flimsy, bamboo huts in place
\nof the stone buildings elsewhere.<\/p>\n
Day 13:<\/p>\n
As a compensation for yesterday’s climb we had a lie-in – bed tea at 7:00.
\nLuxury! Gentle morning only climb to a wonderful woodland campsite amidst fir
\nand rhododendrons (10,900 feet). Afternoon spent lying around with books and
\nwalkmans.<\/p>\n
Day 14:<\/p>\n
Lie in again. Itinerary specifies “A day for rest and acclimatization”.
\nPractice walk up the early stages of tomorrow’s route to about 13,000 feet.
\nAndy’s policy of starting low and taking the long route in, rather than flying
\nto Lukla (10,000 feet) and “sprinting” up to Mera in about a week certainly
\nseems to be working. Here we are reaching 13,000 feet and I’m hardly aware of
\nthe thinner air. However, the air is getting colder, as well as thinner:
\nfleeces definitely being worn now – even when walking.<\/p>\n
Afternoon spent fitting crampons to Plastic Boots. Much easier to work out,
\nand to re-adjust fitting of crampons, when your fingers aren’t frozen. High on
\nentertainment value too.<\/p>\n
Another party walked by during afternoon. Didn’t meet them as our campsite is
\na little way off the path.<\/p>\n
Day 15:<\/p>\n
Early start – with bed tea at 5:00. Groan! Shortly after emerging from forest
\nwe found the other party – also heading for Mera. Felt very morally superior
\nchatting with them: they were still in their sleeping bags inside the tents
\nhaving their morning tea. Any American readers bemused by the English class
\nsystem and British humour should skip the rest of this paragraph! The party
\nwas “upper class English” two women and two men. The two men, since we hadn’t
\nbeen formally introduced ignored us. The two women were much friendlier with
\n“Sloane Ranger” accents (rather like Princess Di). Promptly nicknamed Fiona
\nand Caroline (typical Sloane names) by us for the rest of the trek.<\/p>\n
Steady walk towards a pass, with a steep climb to the pass itself pass at
\n14,800 feet. Great viewpoint (allegedly), but the cloud was down so we
\ncouldn’t judge for ourselves. Camped near sacred lakes at Chambu Kharka
\n(13,776 feet). There are five lakes, and five is associated with Lord Shiva in
\nHindu mythology. Apparently at certain times of the year these lakes become a
\nplace of pilgrimage for Hindus from both Nepal and India. Spotted several
\ncairns supporting small, rusting iron tridents: the trident is Shiva’s symbol.<\/p>\n
The camp itself is in a magnificent natural amphitheatre, with high rocky faces
\nspanning 270 degrees. A sudden and heavy fall for snow for about an hour,
\nfortunately after we’d got the tents up. The transformation of the scenery
\nafter such a brief snowfall was quite remarkable.<\/p>\n
Day 16:<\/p>\n
We ascended briefly, but steeply, out of the campsite. The trail goes in and
\nout of a number of side valleys before descending (extremely steeply) to the
\nHinku River. Happily, the snow had melted away, if it ever settled, on the
\nsteepest part of the descents. I ended up on my butt three times during the
\ndescent – fortunately no damage to myself or sunglasses etc. When not falling
\nover we could enjoy views up a side valley to Nauleke (20,876 feet). Was it
\nreally just 7 days ago that this was a distant peak for us? Crossed the
\nstream\/river from the side valley by an extremely rickety bridge (all local
\nmaterials, including the rope – no wire hawsers this time!) to our lunch spot.
\nI took the chance to take a brief, but thorough bath, in the river. VERY cold
\nindeed, hardly surprising, since its source is a glacier. Bath was even more
\nthorough than I intended since I fell over, again! Well at least today isn’t
\nan ascent\/descent of an ice field.<\/p>\n
After lunch a delightful walk: first a bamboo forest, with views down the
\nHinku Valley. Then a magical rhododendron forest, Arrived at our campsite by
\nthe Hinku Khola, a little below Mosam Kharka (12,106 feet). A bent tree across
\nthe water, Kitchen boy Lakpa (who else) was the first to cross this. For me
\nthis changing of scenery from epic mountains to calm valleys etc is one of the
\nmost attractive features of trekking in the Himalayas<\/p>\n
My diary records that the evening was “cheerful”. Mainly because we had
\ndecided that from here on we’d better abstain, or at least, greatly reduce the
\nintake of whiskey. (Alcohol and high altitudes just don’t mix.) So tonight
\nwas an opportunity to drink up several days allowance at one go. A loud debate
\nresulted – on the ethics of trekking in Nepal, I think. The Sherpas, hearing
\nthe noise, were convinced that a fist fight was about to break out! So Lakpa
\nKitchen Boy, was sent over to the mess tent to act as peacemaker: fortunately
\nhis services as peacemaker were not required.<\/p>\n
Raw garlic eating also started coming into vogue – a traditional Sherpa
\npreventative against altitude sickness and there is some scientific evidence
\nthat it helps thin the blood. Certainly we had no problems with Vampires on
\nthis trek.<\/p>\n
Diary also records “a cold night”. This meant *&(*&( freezing!<\/p>\n
Day 17:<\/p>\n
Path followed West bank of the Hinku Drangka northwards, gradually climbing via
\nthe kharkas of Godishung, Dupishung and Lungsamba. These are all no more than
\na few buildings which are only used during the monsoon season when the valley
\nprovides good grazing for the animals driven up from the South.<\/p>\n
Two hours up the river to Gondishang (12,860 feet), a kharka with some stone
\nshelters and mani walls. Trail crossed moraines and boulder fields (yuck!).
\nClimbed to Dukphu, a tiny Gompa said to be several hundred years old. We were
\ntold that recently it had been inhabited by an Australian Monk for about 5
\nyears.<\/p>\n
The walking was easy with good mountain views. The views were constantly
\nchanging as the path curved around bringing the view up different side valleys
\ninto prominence. Beyond Lungsamba the valley narrowed between the flanks of
\nKusum Kanguru (20,896 feet) to the West and the truncated far western peak of
\nMera (20,522 feet) to the east. It really is true that the Himalayas start
\nwhere other mountain ranges finish. Here we were at about 14,000 feet with
\n6,000 foot peaks above us, and those are some of the smaller peaks! By now we
\nwere liberally plastering on the Sun Screens to block out the intense UV you
\nexperience at altitude. Between these two peaks lies Tagnag, a settlement of
\nabout 12 houses, and 2 tea houses (!) at 14,300 feet inhabited in the summer
\nand trekking seasons by people from Lukla. Met Young Andy and Passang – plus
\nsupply of cabbages.<\/p>\n
The campsite, in a field by one of the tea houses, was dominated by Mera’s
\nwestern peak: a 5,500 feet rock face cut by diagonal snow bands and draped with
\nfingers of ice – some trekking peak! This face was first climbed by two
\nJapanese climbers in the spring of 1985. There were also stunning views of
\nPeak 43 – Char Pati Himal (22,208 feet).<\/p>\n
We arrived in the early afternoon and were the only party there. During the
\nafternoon I, Young Andy, Ian and John scrambled up the huge moraine to the
\nNorth to a beautiful glacial lake, the Sabai Tsho, into which plummets the
\nhanging Sabai Glacier.<\/p>\n
However, despite the wonderful surroundings Tagnag itself is a pretty dreary
\nplace, and a cold campsite. Definitely glad of my down jacket and sleeping
\nbag.<\/p>\n
Day 18:<\/p>\n
Another acclimatisation day. The standard route is to walk straight up to
\nKhare (16,729 feet) but Andy, wisely I think, prefers to have people climb
\nabove 16,000 feet in the morning, and then move to a campsite at Dig Kharka
\n(15,000 feet).<\/p>\n
So in the morning we climbed 2,000 feet up the hill behind Tagnag (16,300 feet
\nbut no name!) to gain even more impressive views of Mera’s West face and of
\nPeak 43. Young Andy, John, Ian and I “stormed up like trains”, Andy’s
\ndescription – not mine, so it looks encouraging for Mera itself. Kevin and
\nRosemary moved at a more “mature” pace (careful choice of words) but still
\ngoing well. Discovered that Ian was planning to try for an altitude record for
\nplaying the penny whistle on Mera, so he had a practice session at our highest
\npoint. I’ve brought a TI baseball hat with me for my summit portrait: maybe I
\ncan persuade ASIC or FPGA to pay me for the photo and use it in an advertising
\ncampaign? “TI on top of the world” or “TI scales the heights others cannot
\nreach?” perhaps? Reluctantly decide that I’m probably suffering from delusions
\nof grandeur as a result of altitude. John has got something in his pack for
\nhis summit portrait, but won’t reveal what it is.<\/p>\n
Returned to Tangnag for lunch. Considerably more crowded as three groups
\n(“Fiona and Caroline”, an Australian group, and a party led by a cheerful
\nDutchman have arrived during the morning.<\/p>\n
An easy afternoon strolling up to Dig Kharka (15,000 feet). Once again the
\nsetting of the campsite was spectacular and was dominated by the abruptlky
\nterminated crest of the Charpati Himal that forms Peak 43. Although higher the
\ncampsite was considerably warmer and more pleasant than Tangnag. By a stream
\nwith a good cave amongst the boulders for the staff – warmer than the mess
\ntent, as they could build a fire in the cave.<\/p>\n
Day 19:<\/p>\n
Late tea, breakfast and washing session.<\/p>\n
From Dig Kharka the path meandered through the moraines and across streams at
\nthe snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbed more steeply to
\nKhare (15,800 feet). Khare is a dirty place! Soil more or less frozen all
\nyear round, so lack of bacteria and insects to break down the evidence of human
\nhabitation. Only recommendation is that its the last place flat enough to
\npitch tents on before you reach the snow and ice of the glacier.<\/p>\n
Day 20:<\/p>\n
Ascent of Mera La. (Next time Nander tells me it takes 20 minutes to walk
\nsomewhere I’ll remember he means 90 minutes – maybe its just the difference
\nbetween Sherpa and Sahib pace. Part of the growing evidence of the truth of
\nthe rumour that Sherpas have three lungs.) Anyway, as a result of his estimate
\nI left my light boots in the camp and spent an extremely uncomfortable 90
\nminutes walking over scree in plastic double boots to the foot of the glacier.<\/p>\n
General pause for boot changing (for the wiser members of the party) and
\ncrampon pulling on. During the break, as well as cursing Nander, I assembled a
\nsmall collection of stones and photoed them on the glacier: the stones are
\npresents for friends and family – the photo is to try and convince the sceptics
\nthat I didn’t just pick them up from the gravel parking area behind my house in
\nBedford!<\/p>\n
However, once actually on the glacier, very glad of the boots. Spent 30
\nminutes or so taking dramatic (ie. “pose”y photos of one another ascending the
\nglacier) and being given lessons on crampon technique. One’s first time on a
\nsteep ice slope in crampons is always odd. To gain maximum grip one has to
\nroll the ankle “out” so that the sole of the foot is parallel to the slope:
\nthis means that the crampon points are perpendicular to the ice, and are
\ntherefore all gripping the ice. All very logical. BUT since its the reverse
\nof how you slimb in snow or loose stones in ordinary boots – when you try to
\nwork the upslope edge of the boot into the slope – it feels unnatural. I was
\none of the fortunate ones who had already learnt the technique. (Back in April
\n92 I went on a Rainier Mountaineering Inc (RMI) snow and ice course on Rainier:
\nhighly recommended as a chance to try gear out and learn snow and ice
\ntechniques before going on a big trek.)<\/p>\n
My turn to be smug at lunchtime – sitting on the glacier. I had a thermarest
\nbum\/bun pad, others had to sit on their rucksacks – colder and less
\ncomfortable.<\/p>\n
Climb to the La. Proved to be highest point Kevin and Rosemary were to reach.
\nHowever the La is a magnificent place it itself, and a helluva’n achievement to
\nreach.<\/p>\n
Return to Khare and many mugs of tea. Altitude is very dehydrating. Dutch
\nleader came over to see if Andy had a particular drug in his first aid kit:
\none of his party had symptoms of tapeworm infestation. Great! Just what you
\nwant to hear about while drinking tea and eating biscuits! More seriously did
\nram home the importance of hygene.<\/p>\n
Day 21:<\/p>\n
Unfortunately after overnight consideration Rosemary and Kevin both decided not
\nto attempt the summit. However, for the rest of us it proved to be another
\nclear day with little wind. Certainly more than made up for all the cloudy
\nweather lower down. The plan was for Ian, John, both Andys, myself, An Kami,
\nNander and Lapka to camp high. Dawa and Passang were to act as mountain
\nporters helping to carry the tents, cooking gear etc to the high camp, but
\nreturning to Khare for the night.<\/p>\n
We retraced yesterdays steps, except that we climbed much higher on a rocky
\nshoulder before going onto the glacier. (Discovered that yesterday’s long
\nglacier session was unnecessary, but we’d been taken on it to practice crampon
\ntechnique.) Progress was slower as this time we were carrying proper packs
\ncontaining sleeping bags and all the clothing we needed. Pausing briefly on
\nthe La we climbed higher to establish the camp at about 19,500 feet at about
\ntwo o’clock. We had three tents: Ian, John, and myself in one, The two Andys
\nin the second, and the Sherpas in a third. At this altitude, and for the
\nrelatively rich Climbing Sherpas, all distinctions of kit disappeared – the
\ntents were similar, the Sherpas’ actually had more features, and all three had
\nplastic double boots, down jackets etc.<\/p>\n
The campsite was well used, though a little cleaner than Khare, and we met a
\nsingle Japanese trekker there. He was a day ahead of us, so had summitted
\nwhile we were climbing up from Khare and we met him on his way down.<\/p>\n
The view from the campsite was unforgettable and, because we were camping
\nthere, we also had the privilege of watching the peaks with the evening sun
\nupon them. Sweeping round from the East were Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu
\nand Baruntse. To the North Everest peered over the massive South Face of
\nLhotse and the Nuptse\/Lhotse wall. Continuing Westward the peaks of Ama Dablam
\n(the most beautiful mountain I’ve yet seen), Cho Oyu and Kangtega. All around
\nare untracked glaciers. Behind us was an uninterrupted curve of ice and snow
\nleading to the three main peaks of Mera.<\/p>\n
Once we’d helped pitch the tent we disappeared inside to keep warm – emerging
\nbriefly at four o’clock for the evening light views and photo opportunity.
\nWith the temperature falling rapidly, back into the tents. Andy had warned us
\nthat we’d lose our appetite at this altitude, but that we must keep taking as
\nmuch liquid as we could and to push down as much sweet stuff as we could bear.
\nSupper was noodle soup, and, just in case we hadn’t lost our appetites, some
\nKerosene had found its way into the soup instead of the stove!<\/p>\n
A hilarious game of cards followed, with everybody crammed into one tent:
\nlocal rules required that one shout out the card played for the benefit of
\nthose who couldn’t see it. I don’t recall when we actually got into the
\nsleeping bags but it was early!<\/p>\n
I actually got a much better night’s sleep than I anticipated. I had a slight
\nheadache initially, but swilling down a liter of water fixed that problem. I
\nhad decided that I’d try sleeping with just my heavy weight thermals, socks and
\nbalaclava on so I would have enough clothes to put on in the morning to
\nminimise the temperature shock. In fact I was wonderfully warm all night. So
\nwere my boots, both inner and outer, and water bottles which shared the bag
\nwith me. Left outside the inner boots would have been stiff as a board, The
\nouter boots, themselves, would have been OK but frozen laces are never easy to
\ntighten and tie.<\/p>\n
Day 22:<\/p>\n
Officially awoken at 5 am. – an hour later than planned – with a mug of coffee.
\nThe Sherpas weren’t any keener than we were to get out of their sleeping bags,
\nhence, I suspect the delay in waking us. The Andys estimated the temperature
\nas -22 degrees Farhenheit ie. 54 degrees of frost. The coffee was almost
\nunbearably sweet, but at least it didn’t have any Kerosene in it!<\/p>\n
We all emerged from the tents wearing every item of clothing, well at least I
\ndid. This meat heavy thermals, fleece salopettes, two fleece tops, down
\njacket, balaclava gaiters and an outer layer of Goretex cagoule and salopettes.
\nThis actually proved to be too much and after 20 minutes I removed the cagoule
\nand unzipped the down. Very light packs indeed!<\/p>\n
We started out in semi-darkness with sunrise coming shortly. I felt a strong
\nsense of unreality – walking this high, on snow, amongst “real” mountains was
\nsomething I had read about, had watched on TV, and fantasised about as a child.
\nI never thought I’d really experience this. I’m not ashamed to say that a few
\ntears came to my eyes – even if they, the tears that is, did freeze up!<\/p>\n
Besides the cold the biggest problem was the altitude. I consulted some
\ntextbooks when I returned home and discovered that at 20,000 feet the air is,
\non average, half the density at sea level. That means, obviously, you only get
\nhalf the Oxygen you’re used to – actually its a bit better than that, because
\nthe body tries to compensate by generating extra red blood corpuscles to
\nincrease the amount of Oxygen you can absorb from each breath. Progress is,
\ninevitably, slow. Panting with so little air is very unrewarding and your pace
\nnaturally slows right down in an attempt to avoid getting into any oxygen debt
\nat all. Unfortunately on steep slopes you can’t slow down enough. Initially
\nwe would walk for just a few minutes, stop for a quick pant, and repeat for ten
\nminutes or so before stopping for a longer break. During these longer breaks
\nNander would light up a cigarette! I found that unless I exhaled hard, to
\nforce myself to breathe deeply I had a nasty “winded” feeling in the diaphragm.<\/p>\n
The trail was well walked, and wove carefully around the open crevasses We
\nstill had to cross unopened crevasses – very odd feeling to step across a 2
\ninch gap in the snow knowing that below could be a 50 foot, or more, drop!
\nSuch crevasses, and cornice edges were marked with flags on yard long sticks of
\nbamboo.<\/p>\n
Romantic notions of blazing a fresh trail disappear rapidly. First because you
\ndon’t want to discover a crevasse, and secondly because off the path you sink
\nup to your thigh in the softer snow. We started in boots only, but, as the
\nslope steepened towards 45 degrees we put crampons on. Crampons grip the snow
\nand ice better, but on shallower slopes slow you down. However, the snow was
\nso firm, under the soft covering off the trail, that the Sherpas and leaders
\ndecided we didn’t need to rope up. We had the full kit of harnesses, rope and
\nice axes available and extra “hardware” was shared between the Sherpas and
\nleaders in case of real problems.<\/p>\n
It was a long, slow, and very hard pull to the summit which we reached at about
\n11:00 – about 5 hours to climb 3,000 feet. Much backslapping, handshakes and
\nhugs (“I say chaps, what happened to the traditions of British reserve”). The
\nmain summit was protected by a 15 foot wide crevasse, so the official trekking
\nsummit for 1992 was a little lower. The heights quoted by the government
\nregulations, the different maps and the various guidebooks all differ. We’re
\nsticking to our claim of 6,600 m or 21,600 feet!<\/p>\n
I then found that during the ascent I’d hit my camera lens against something so
\nit was skew-whiff and stuck. At least the focus was at infinity! I took
\npanoramic shots in the desperate hope that the camera was still in focus. In
\nfact the photos are pretty good.<\/p>\n
The panoramic views were, naturally, even more stunning than the views from the
\ncampsite. Clear views of FOUR of the world’s FIVE highest mountains – Everest,
\nKanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu. Plus a good view all the way down the Hinku
\nvalley that we’d walked up for so long.<\/p>\n
We only stayed on top for 20 minutes or so. Ian played his penny whistle
\n(briefly!) and planted the St Andrew’s Cross. I posed for John to take my
\npicture wearing TI hat with Everest in background, and John produced his summit
\nsurprise ……. a Father Christmas beard! (His brother in law is a clergyman
\nand wanted a picture of Father Christmas on a snowy mountain for Children’s
\nparties.)<\/p>\n
A rapid descent to the campsite followed. Crampons all the way, I kept my
\ndescent controlled, though rapid, by constantly reminding myself that more
\naccidents happen on descents than ascents, due to over relaxing and loss of
\nconcentration. John and I sped down in 70 minutes to the camp. An Kami had
\nremained there and greeted us with hot juice and hot canned fruit. Wonderful!<\/p>\n
Once we had all helped pack the tents and kits we descended, somewhat more
\nslowly, over the La to the glacier and onto the moraine shoulder. Here met by
\nPassang with our regular boots. I felt like I was walking on air with the
\nsudden change in weight of boot. The wonderful man even carried the plastic
\nboots down for us. A long descent to Dig Kharka and a warm welcome from Kevin,
\nRosemary and the staff. Arrived at about half past four – after a descent of
\nover 6,000 feet. All in all a very long and very exhausting day! The extra
\ndescent was worth it to reach a warm, comparatively, campsite. However, the
\ndescent and exertion brought my headache back with a vengeance. Eventually
\ncured after pouring down water until I felt like a water filled balloon!
\nCertainly no Whiskey celebrations, though. To bed early, both tired and happy.<\/p>\n
Day 23:<\/p>\n
After the high drama of the last three days an uneventful day. A late start
\n(which allowed us to wash both ourselves and our kit). Both were pretty
\nsmelly, but as we were all as bad as each other, nobody had cared on the
\nmountain.) I celebrated return to lower (sic) altitudes by wearing shorts
\nagain. Rose above the resulting general derision.<\/p>\n
Looking up to the La we could see snow being blown up by the wind. We had been
\nso lucky to hit a good window in the weather yesterday!<\/p>\n
Then retraced our route to Tangnang. After lunch we stayed on the West bank of
\nthe river and reached a new campsite at Tashing Dingma (11,489 feet) – below
\nthe tree line. Met a French party there whom we practiced our (bad) French on.
\nA full scale party that evening.<\/p>\n
Day 24:<\/p>\n
Despite the hangovers we managed a day of consistent ascent to Thuli Kharka
\n(14,760 feet) above the tree line once more. Another remarkable campsite!
\nAbove us, overlooking the pass we were to climb the next day, an amazing
\nmushroom shaped stack of rock. Below us a layer of cloud, extending as far as
\nwe could see, trapped at about 12,000 feet. Apparently due to temperature
\ninversion. Very beautiful, with mountains peaks like islands in a sea of
\ncloud. More prosaically, it might mean a complete change in the weather.<\/p>\n
Day 25:<\/p>\n
It did! Very, heavy grey clouds above us when we woke in the morning. A heavy
\nfall of snow seemed imminent. Staff and clients alike gobbled breakfast,
\npacked kit in record time and sprinted for the Zatrwala pass (14,950 feet), to
\ntry and beat the snow there. Almost made it!<\/p>\n
However, the descent was a nightmare! With thick snow falling we had to rig a
\nrope to descend the first steep slope from the top of the pass. I managed some
\ngood photos os some very professional looking descents – especially by Rosemary
\nwho had never used a rope in her life before! After that it was a slow grind
\ndown a steep and very slippery slope. I spent more time sitting down that
\nstanding. (I MUST get some boots with better grip for these situations –
\nhowever new boots were hard to find that day). We clients all made it down
\nsafely, but Lapka Kitchen Boy took a tumble – he was OK but overenthusiasm will
\nbe the death of him!<\/p>\n
The original plan was to camp in a woodland clearing at Chutanga Kharka (11,300
\nfeet). Sopping wet and cold we paused for lunch instead, and then, by
\nunanimous consent, stormed onto Lukla. Lukla used to be a village of little
\nimportance. Now it is a major trekking point because it has an airstrip which
\nenables people to save a day on the traditional walk in to Everest. It also
\nhas many lodging houses with luxuries like stoves!<\/p>\n
Day 26:<\/p>\n
At rest in Lukla. Weather changed completely again and is warm and sunny. The
\nkit drys beautifully. Most of the day spent watching other trekkers and
\nplanes. One day somebody is going to gather material here for a Psychology
\nPh.D. thesis! Only about 60% of the scheduled flights actually happen owing to
\ncloud conditions at Kathmandu or at Lukla. (No such thing as instrumentation
\nonly landings at Lukla on a dirt runway, which is on a slope, with twin engined
\nOtter planes. Even Kathmandu doesn’t have proper facilities – as was
\ntragically proved by the PIA crash there earlier in the year.) As a result
\nrumours spread, intrigues seeth, bribes are paid, all in a desperate bid to be
\non one of the flights that does happen! We were assured that after long
\ninterruptions to service of 2 or 3 days, not infrequent, the first flight out
\nfrom Kathmandu brings police reinforcements to control the trekkers who can be
\nat near riot point!<\/p>\n
Said farewell to the trek crew. Andy presented them with our thanks, and the
\ncustomary tips (very well deserved). We had also respect the other end of trek
\ntradition and donated unwanted kit to be shared between the porters.<\/p>\n
Andy insisted on dragging us round Lukla until he found a party that evening.
\nI will maintain a discrete silence on why we had to retreat from the party
\nearly! Even if I survived the libel lawyers I fear some embarrassing stories
\nabout me would emerge too. A good end to the trek though.<\/p>\n
Day 27:<\/p>\n
Thanks to local contacts (we were listed on the passenger list as “priority”)
\nwe were on the second flight out. The take off is always exciting as you
\nbounce down the runway knowing that there is a drop of several thousand feet at
\nthe end. This time the stall alarm sounded briefly as we took off!
\nFortunately those who were most frightened of the flight didn’t realise what
\nthe noise meant. Ignorance can be bliss.<\/p>\n
Back to civilisation, showers, CNN and BBC World Service in the hotel reception
\narea. Well it was civilisation until the WWF Main Event came on.<\/p>\n
First stop was the San Francisco Pizza Parlour (a locally owned and run
\nestablishment) and the demolition of a large pile of pizzas. This was an
\nenjoyable compromise between the natural desire to find the best and biggest
\nbuffalo steak in town and abstinence.<\/p>\n
Andy had counselled us to try and control our temptation to binge – for the
\nlast three and a half weeks we’d been on a simple diet, so too much rich food
\ncould easily cause an upset stomach. Besides, on trek the staff were
\npunctillious with observing hygiene rules. In Kathmandu this may not be the
\ncase. Stick to the restaurants people have eaten at safely in the past! Young
\nAndy said his previous party had gone to a new Thai restaurant on their last
\nnight, the next morning over half of them got onto the flight with the
\nKathmandu Quickstep. We avoided that restaurant.<\/p>\n
Day 28:<\/p>\n
In Kathmandu. Sightseeing, souvenir buying, and more (semi-controlled) eating.
\nA farewell meal with An Kami in “KC’s” – one of the Restaurants that made its
\nname back in the 60s when Kathmandu was on the hippy trail.<\/p>\n
Day 29:<\/p>\n
I don’t think its worth adding much to the itinerary “Depart Kathmandu, arrive
\nLondon.”<\/p>\n
AFTERTHOUGHT<\/p>\n
My next article will talk about some of the practicalities of organising a
\ntrip. However, I’d certainly recommend North West Frontiers unreservedly for
\nanyone considering a Himalayan Trek or a walking holiday in Scotland or Europe.
\nIts a small company, so the number of treks is smaller than that offered by the
\nlarge companies, but the quality is exceptional. Address and Phone Number
\nare as follows.<\/p>\n
Andrew Bluefield
\n North West Frontiers
\n 19, West Terrace
\n ULLAPOOL,
\n Rossshire IV26 2UU
\n SCOTLAND<\/p>\n
Phone is International + 44 854 612571
\n Fax is International + 44 854 612025<\/p>\n
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS<\/p>\n
Thanks to Robert Wong, Steve Rice and Mike Adams who spotted a glorious, but
\nhighly embarassing, typo in the first draft of this article. Further thanks to
\nRobert for spell checking the first draft and for pointing out where my British
\nEnglish didn’t translate into American English!<\/p>\n
