{"id":13634,"date":"2023-03-21T02:10:56","date_gmt":"2023-03-21T01:10:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/summer-flowering-bulbs-in-the-home-landscape\/"},"modified":"2023-03-21T02:10:56","modified_gmt":"2023-03-21T01:10:56","slug":"summer-flowering-bulbs-in-the-home-landscape","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/summer-flowering-bulbs-in-the-home-landscape\/","title":{"rendered":"Summer Flowering Bulbs In The Home Landscape"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>                                         SUMMER FLOWERING BULBS IN THE HOME LANDSCAPE<\/p>\n<p>The addition of summer flowering bulbs to the home landscape adds not only beauty but<br \/>\ninterest. These plants have a particular form as well as brilliant, clear colors. They<br \/>\nare easy to grow and can be saved and planted year after year. They can be planted<br \/>\ndirectly in beds or may be grown in containers. A wide choice is possible in the kinds<br \/>\nof summer bulbs available.<\/p>\n<p>  Tuberous begonias:<br \/>\navailable in beautiful red, pink, orange, salmon, yellow or white flowers attaining a size of 12 to 14 inches in diameter.<br \/>\nThe tubers can be planted in flats or pots in March or April to get a faster start, or they can be planted directly in the garden about<br \/>\nmid-May.<\/p>\n<p>If starting them early, use shallow flats or pots that have been filled  with coarse<br \/>\npeat moss. Press the tuber into the peat moss 3 to 4 inches apart with the concave side<br \/>\nup. Place the flats or pots in a dark room such as the basement at 65 deg. to 70 deg.F.<br \/>\nAs the pink shoots start to develop, add more peat moss so it covers the tubers and move<br \/>\nthem to a sunny window. Keep the peat moss moist, but do not overwater the<br \/>\ntubers as they rot easily. Fertilize the young plants with a liquid fertilizer<br \/>\nevery two weeks according to the rate on the container.<\/p>\n<p>About the middle of May, plants as well as unsprouted tubers can be planted in the<br \/>\ngarden. Select an area that is well drained and partially shaded. Set the tubers<br \/>\nin the ground so they are just covered and no deeper as they are subject to rotting.<br \/>\nTo allow for plenty of growing space and air circulation, set the tubers or plants<br \/>\n18 to 24 inches apart. It may be necessary to stake the young plants as many of the<br \/>\nlarger growing cultivars (varieties) become top heavy bloom.<\/p>\n<p>Apply a fertilizer such as 4-16-16, 5-10-5, 5-10-10 or 5-20.20 at the rate of 3 to 4<br \/>\npounds per 100 square feet at monthly intervals. Water when the soil starts to dry,<br \/>\npreferably in the morning or early afternoon. This allows the foliage and flowers<br \/>\nto dry before nightfall and reduces chances of disease.<\/p>\n<p>After the frost has killed the foliage, the tubers must be dug, the foliage removed and tubers dried for a few days. Store in peat moss or<br \/>\nsawdust in boxes or other containers but not plastic bags. Place in a storage space that is dry and where<br \/>\nthe temperature is maintained around 50 F. Do not allow the tubers to freeze.<\/p>\n<p>Canna: commonly used years ago where a tall plant with bright red color was<br \/>\nneeded. This plant had luxurious green foliage to support the flower. The plant seemed to diminish in popularity but has begun a revival due<br \/>\nto new cultivars that offer not only red flowers but pink, orange, yellow and cream. Some even have red<br \/>\nor bronze foliage. Some cultivars are tall, reaching a height of 7 to 8 feet, while others are a maximum of 18 inches.<\/p>\n<p>The rhizomes (underground stems) may be started early, such as with begonias, or<br \/>\nthey can be planted directly in the garden. Usually they are planted directly in<br \/>\nthe garden about the middle of May. Select a spot that is well drained and receives full sunlight. The rhizomes should be planted a couple of<br \/>\ninches below the surface and 18 to 24 inches apart. Water thoroughly after planting and begin fertilizing as soon as the shoots come through<br \/>\nthe ground. Use a dry complete fertilizer such as 4-16-16, 5-10-5, 5-10-10 or 5-20-20 at the rate of 3 to 4 pounds per 100 square feet.<br \/>\nApply once a month during the growing season and water thoroughly after application. Water the plants when the soil begins to dry and<br \/>\nstake if necessary.<\/p>\n<p>Once the foliage has been killed by frost, the dead tops should be removed and the<br \/>\nrhizomes dug. Be careful not to damage them. Remove the soil and let the rhizomes<br \/>\nlie on the garage or basement floor for a few days to dry. Then store them in dry<br \/>\npeat moss or sawdust in boxes, bushel baskets or gunny sacks. Select a spot in the<br \/>\nbasement or where they will be dry and can be kept at 45 to 50 F. Do not allow them<br \/>\nto freeze.<\/p>\n<p>Gladiolus: grown for their magnificent flowers, which come in all colors. There<br \/>\nare large flower types as well as small. They can be used as background plants in<br \/>\nthe garden or as cut flowers for inside the home. If care is given to a planting<br \/>\nschedule, flowers can be available from early summer until frost. Therefore, it is<br \/>\nadvisable to separate the corms into various planting dates so flowering can be spread<br \/>\nout.<\/p>\n<p>The first corms can be planted as early as May 1. Set the corms 4 to 5 inches deep<br \/>\nand 5 to 6 inches apart. If they are grown in rows, allow 36 inches between the rows.<br \/>\nIn two wee%s, plant the next group of corms and continue this procedure until the<br \/>\nlast of July. By so planting, flowers will be available almost anytime during the<br \/>\nsummer. As soon as the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, apply a complete dry fertilizer<br \/>\nsuch as 4-16-16, 5-10-5, 5-10-10 or 5-20-20 at the rate of 3 to 4 pounds per 100<br \/>\nsquare feet. This is the only fertilizer that will be needed during the growing season.<br \/>\nWater the plants thoroughly when the soil starts to get dry.<\/p>\n<p>After the foliage has dried in late summer or autumn, dig the corms, remove the soil and<br \/>\nsnap off the dead tops. The old corm or &#8220;mummy&#8221;may also be removed at this time<br \/>\nif still present. Spread the corms out on the garage or basement floor and allow to<br \/>\ndry for three or four days. Place the corms in boxes with dry peat moss or sawdust.<br \/>\nIf a large number of corms are involved, make some boxes that are 3 to 4 inches deep<br \/>\nwith bottoms made of hardware cloth. Store the corms in a dry, cool place at a<br \/>\ntemperature of 35 to 40&#8243;F. Check them periodically during the winter for signs<br \/>\nof rotting or rodents.<\/p>\n<p>Prepared by: James L. Caldwell<\/p>\n<p>  Extension Horticulturist<br \/>\n  The Ohio State University<\/p>\n<div class='watch-action'><div class='watch-position align-right'><div class='action-like'><a class='lbg-style1 like-13634 jlk' href='javascript:void(0)' data-task='like' data-post_id='13634' data-nonce='763084672f' rel='nofollow'><img class='wti-pixel' src='https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-content\/plugins\/wti-like-post\/images\/pixel.gif' title='Like' \/><span class='lc-13634 lc'>0<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div> <div class='status-13634 status align-right'><\/div><\/div><div class='wti-clear'><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>SUMMER FLOWERING BULBS IN THE HOME LANDSCAPE The addition of summer flowering bulbs to the home landscape&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[27],"class_list":["post-13634","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-othernonsense","tag-english","wpcat-7-id"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13634","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13634"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13634\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13635,"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13634\/revisions\/13635"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13634"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13634"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.graviton.at\/letterswaplibrary\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13634"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}