Ball Python care in captivity<\/p>\n
By Melissa Kaplan
\n Additional material\/post-editing by Kyle Wohlmut<\/p>\n
Overview<\/p>\n
* Natural History
\n * Getting Started
\n * Temperature
\n * Feeding
\n * Veterinary Care
\n * Handling
\n * Bibliography<\/p>\n
Natural History<\/p>\n
Ball pythons (Python regius ) are found at the edges of the forest lands of
\nCentral and Western Africa. They are equally comfortable on the ground and
\nin trees. They are crepuscular, active around dawn and dusk. Called Royal
\npythons in Europe, they are called “Balls” in the United States due to their
\nhabit of curling themselves up into a tight ball when they are nervous,
\ntheir heads pulled firmly into the center. Like most pythons, Balls are
\ncurious and gentle snakes.<\/p>\n
Balls typically reach 4 feet in length; occasionally there are specimens
\nthat reach greater than 5 feet. When properly fed, their bodies become
\nnicely rounded. Like all pythons and boas, Balls have anal spurs. These
\nsingle claws appearing on either side of the vent are the vestigial remains
\nof the hind legs snakes lost during their evolution from lizard to snake
\nmillions of years ago. Males have longer spurs than do the females; males
\nalso have smaller heads than the females.<\/p>\n
Ball pythons, like all pythons and boas, devour a variety of prey in the
\nwild – amphibians, lizards, other snakes, birds and small mammals. They do
\nnot eat mice in the wild, however, and do not recognize the mice we offer
\nthem as being something edible. Thus, imported wild-caught Balls tend to be
\nvery picky eaters, at least initially, and drive their owners to distraction
\nin their attempts to get them to eat something. Balls are reputed to be able
\nto go for extended periods of time without food; wild-caught Balls have gone
\nfor a year or more without food until finally enticed to eat lizards and
\nother snakes. This is not a healthy trait and must not be a reason for
\nselecting this species. This should also make you suspicious when a pet
\nstore tells you that their Balls are eating well. Buying captive-born Balls
\nreduces the stress on the threatened populations in the wild and helps
\nensure you will get a healthy, established eater and a snake already used to
\ncontact with humans. Buying from a reputable breeder will ensure that you
\nwill get the help and advice you need to assure that your Ball feels
\ncomfortable and secure enough to eat after you bring it home and let it get
\nsettled for a week or so.<\/p>\n
With the increased popularity of reptiles as pets there is increased
\npressure on wild populations. In addition to the more than 60,000 Balls that
\nare imported annually, Balls are killed for food and their skin is used for
\nleather in their native land. For some reason, despite their low
\nreproduction rate, wild Balls are the least expensive pythons on the market,
\ngenerally wholesaling for under ten dollars. Imported Balls also harbor
\nseveral different types of parasites which may go unnoticed by the novice
\nsnake owner. All around, it is better to buy a captive-born hatchling or an
\nestablished, well-feeding juvenile, sub-adult or adult than an imported Ball
\nof any age.<\/p>\n
In captivity, young Balls will grow about a foot a year during the first
\nthree years. They will reach sexual maturity in three to five years. The
\nlongest living Ball python on record was over 28 years old when it died.
\nEgg-layers, female Balls encircle their four to ten eggs, remaining with
\nthen from the time they are laid until they hatch. During this three month
\nperiod, they will not leave the eggs and will not eat.<\/p>\n
Selecting your Ball Python<\/p>\n
Choose an animal that has clear firm skin, rounded body shape, clean vent,
\nclear eyes, and who actively flicks its tongue around when handled. All
\nBalls are naturally shy about having their heads touched or handled by
\nstrangers; a normal reaction is for the Ball to pull its head and neck
\nsharply away from such contact. When held, the snake should grip you gently
\nbut firmly when moving around. It should be alert to its surroundings. All
\nyoung snakes are food for other, larger snakes, birds, lizards and mammalian
\npredators so your hatchling may be a bit nervous at first but should settle
\ndown quickly.<\/p>\n
Selecting an escape-proof enclosure
\nSelect an enclosure especially designed for housing snakes, such as the
\nglass tanks with the combination fixed screen\/hinged glass top. All snakes
\nare escape artists; Balls are especially powerful and cunning when it comes
\nto breaking out. A good starter tank for a hatchling is a 10 gallon tank
\n(approx. 20″L x 10″W). A young adult requires a 20 gallon tank, and full
\nadult may require a 40-50 gallon tank (48″ x 24″W).<\/p>\n
For substrate, use newspaper at first. This is easily and quickly removed
\nand replaced when soiled and, with an import, will allow you to better
\nmonitor for the presence of mites and the condition of the feces. Once the
\nanimal is established, you can use more decorative ground cover such as
\ncommercially prepared shredded cypress or fir bark, although newspaper will
\nserve as a good substrate for the life of the animal. Pine and aspen
\nshavings should not be used as they can become lodged in the mouth while
\neating, causing respiratory and other problems. Additionally, cedar may be
\ntoxic to reptiles. The shavings must be monitored closely and all soiled and
\nwet shavings pulled out immediately to prevent bacteria and fungus growths.
\nThe utilitarian approach is to use inexpensive astroturf. Extra pieces can
\nbe kept in reserve and used when the soiled piece is removed for cleaning
\nand drying (soak in one gallon of water to which you have added two
\ntablespoon of household bleach; rinse thoroughly, and dry completely before
\nreuse). Remember: the easier it is to clean, the faster you’ll do it!<\/p>\n
Provide a hiding place
\nA variety of hide boxes are suitable for your Ball Python, but some form of
\nhiding area is absolutely essential. A half-log is available at pet stores.
\nAn empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both with an
\naccess doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily
\ncleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced
\nwith a new one. Broiling pan lids, propped up at one end, are effective and
\nextremely easy to clean. The box or log must be big enough for the snake to
\nhide its entire body inside; you will need to eventually replace it as your
\nsnake grows. Balls prefer dark places for sleeping and, as they are
\nnocturnal, they like the dark place during our daylight hours; they also
\nlike to sleep in something that is close around them, so do not buy or make
\ntoo big of a cave for its size. Place a nice climbing branch or two in the
\ntank with some fake greenery screening part of it; your Ball will enjoy
\nhanging out in the “tree.”<\/p>\n
Temperature<\/p>\n
Proper temperature range is essential to keeping your snake healthy. the
\nambient air temperature throughout the enclosure must be maintained between
\n80-85 degrees F during the day, with a basking area kept at 90 degrees F. At
\nnight, the ambient air temperature may be allowed to drop down no lower than
\n75 degrees F only if a basking area of at least 80 degrees F remains
\navailable. Special reptile heating pads that are manufactured to maintain a
\ntemperature about 20 degrees higher than the air temperature may be used
\ninside the enclosure. There are adhesive pads that can be stuck to the
\nunderside of a glass enclosure. Heating pads made for people, available at
\nall drug stores, are also available; these have built-in hi-med-lo switches
\nand can be used under a glass enclosure. However, when using drug store
\nheating pads, monitor their temperature carefully and do not allow the snake
\ndirect contact with the pad. You can also use incandescent light bulbs in
\nporcelain and metal reflector hoods to provide the additional heat required
\nfor the basking area. All lights must be screened off to prevent the snake
\nfrom burning itself. All pythons, especially Ball pythons, are very
\nsusceptible to thermal burns. For this same reason do not use a hot rock.
\nNew on the market are ceramic heating elements. They radiate heat downwards,
\ndo not emit light, and are reported to be long lasting. Plugged into a
\nthermostat will enable you to adjust the temperature inside the tank as the
\nambient room temperature changes with the seasons.<\/p>\n
Buy at least two thermometers– one to use in the overall area 1″ above the
\nenclosure floor, and the other 1″ above the floor in the basking area. Don’t
\ntry to guess the temperature– you will either end up with a snake who will
\nbe too cold to eat and digest its food or one ill or dead from overheating.<\/p>\n
No special lighting is needed. Balls are nocturnal snakes, spending their
\ndays in the wild securely hidden away from possible predators. To make it
\neasier to see your Ball during the day, you can use a full-spectrum light or
\nlow wattage incandescent bulb in the enclosure during the day. Make sure the
\nsnake cannot get into direct contact with the light bulbs as Balls are very
\nprone to getting seriously burned.<\/p>\n
Respect your Ball’s needs, however, and be sure to provide a hide box, and
\nexpect them to use it!<\/p>\n
Feeding<\/p>\n
Allow your snake to acclimate to its new home for a couple of weeks. Start
\nyour hatchling (about 15″ in length) off with a single pre-killed one week
\nto 10-day old “fuzzy” mouse. A smaller sized hatchling may require a smaller
\nmouse; try a pre-killed 5-day old. Older Balls may be fed larger pre-killed
\nmice or pinkie rats. If you have not had any experience force feeding a
\nsnake, you may not want to try it yourself until you have seen someone do
\nit. Force feeding, whether of a mouse or with a formula inserted by catheter
\nand syringe, is very stressful for the snake (and it isn’t much fun for the
\nowner!). If your new Ball has gone several months without eating and is
\nbeginning to noticeably lose weight, take it to a reptile vet or contact
\nyour local herpetology society and ask to speak to someone who is
\nknowledgeable about Ball pythons and feeding problems. A good inexpensive
\nbook that covers some of the tricks to enticing reluctant Balls to feed is
\nThe Care and Maintenance of Ball Pythons by Philippe de Vosjoli.<\/p>\n
Provide a bowl of fresh water at all times. Your snake will both drink and
\nsoak, and may defecate, in it. Check it daily and change when soiled.
\nSoaking is especially good just before a shed. When they eyes clear from
\ntheir milky opaque, or “blue” state, soak the snake in a tub of warm water
\nfor ten minutes or so, then lightly dry it off, and return it immediately to
\nits tank; it should shed cleanly within twenty-four hours.<\/p>\n
Veterinary Care<\/p>\n
Routine veterinary care for newly acquired snakes is essential. Many of the
\nparasites infesting Balls and other reptiles can be transmitted to humans
\nand other reptiles. Left untreated, such infestations can ultimately kill
\nyour snake. When your snake first defecates, collect the feces in a clean
\nplastic bag, seal it, label it with the date, your name and phone number and
\nthe snake’s name, then take it and your snake to a vet who is experienced
\nwith reptiles. There it will be tested and the proper medication given if
\nworms or protozoan infestations are found.<\/p>\n
Common problems encountered in captivity include retained eye shed
\n(spectacles) and mites. When snakes shed their skin, the layer of skin over
\ntheir eye is also shed, and can be clearly seen when looking at a piece of
\nhead shed. Always check your Ball’s head shed to assure it has shed the
\nspectacles. If one or both spectacles have been retained, bathe the snake
\nagain in warmish water for about ten minutes. Before returning it to the
\nenclosure, place a dab of mineral oil on that eye with a cotton-tipped swab.
\nThe spectacle should come off within twenty-four hours. If it does not come
\noff, wrap your four fingers with transparent tape, sticky side out. Gently
\nrock your fingers from left to right (or, from nose to neck) across the eye;
\nthe spectacle should come off. If this does not removed the spectacle, then
\nseek veterinary assistance.<\/p>\n
Mites
\nMites are a sign of poor environmental conditions. Adult mites are tiny
\nreddish brown dots barely bigger than the period at the end of this
\nsentence. You may first notice them swarming over your hand and arm after
\nyou have handled your snake (don’t worry–they are harmless to humans) or
\nsee them moving around your snake’s body or clustered around the eyes. Mites
\nare harmful to snakes, especially ones that have not been kept properly. On
\nthe positive side, they are easy and relatively inexpensive to get rid of,
\nalthough the process is time-consuming. Place the snake into a warmish bath
\ninto which Betadine or Listerine mouthwash has been added – the water should
\nbe slightly yellow and the aroma very apparent.<\/p>\n
While the snake is soaking, clean out the enclosure. Throw away the
\nsubstrate (careful to not let any spill on the floor) and any wooden objects
\nin the enclosure such as branches or hide logs. Rocks should be boiled for
\nten minutes, then placed back in the enclosure for fumigating.<\/p>\n
Wash the tank out thoroughly with soapy water, then swab down with a
\nbleach-water solution (one cup bleach to one gallon of water); let the
\nsolution sit for ten minutes, then rinse out thoroughly before fumigating.
\nTo fumigate, place inside the enclosure (on a piece of foil) a Vapona Strip
\nor Hart’s 3-in-One Flea Collar. Seal up the tank: tape foil or heavy paper
\nover all openings. Let sit for two hours. Unseal, replace the strip or
\ncollar back in their package and enclose in a plastic bag for future use.
\nLet the tank air out for at least two hours before putting in new substrate
\nand furnishings. Before placing the snake back in the enclosure, dab each
\neye with mineral oil; this will seep into the tiny pits along side the eye
\nin which the mites hide and breed. Watch the snake and enclosure carefully.
\nMites are like fleas in that they have an extended egg cycle, and any eggs
\nyou and the fumigant missed may hatch in four to six weeks. If you see any
\nat that time, repeat all of the above steps. That should be the last time
\nyou will have to do it. In the meantime, evaluate the snake’s environment
\n(heat, photoperiod, privacy) and health (internal parasites, respiratory
\ninfection, pseudomonas infection [mouthrot], lesions, protozoan infections)
\nto determine the underlying cause for the weakness then enabled the mites to
\ntake hold. Then fix it!<\/p>\n
Handling your new snake<\/p>\n
After giving your Ball a couple of days to settle in, begin picking it up
\nand handling it gently. It may move away from you, and may threaten you by
\nlashing it’s tail and hissing; don’t be put off – it is usually just a
\nbluff, and snakes, like most reptiles, are very good at bluffing! Be gentle
\nbut persistent. Daily contact with each other will begin to establish a
\nlevel of trust and confidence between you and your snake. When it is
\ncomfortable with you, you can begin taking it around the house. Don’t get
\nover-confident! Given a chance and close proximity to seat cushions, your
\nBall will make a run (well, a slither) for it, easing down between the
\ncushions and from there, to points possibly unknown. Always be gentle, and
\ntry to avoid sudden movements. If the snake wraps around your arm or neck,
\nyou can unwind it by gently grasping it’s tail and gently unwrapping it from
\naround your neck or arm – do not try to unwrap it by moving the head. Some
\nsnakes are a bit sensitive about being handled soon after they have eaten.
\nIf you feed your snake out of it’s enclosure, go ahead and replace it back
\ninto it’s enclosure after it has finished eating. Then leave it be for a
\ncouple of days. As the snake gets more comfortable with you, it will be less
\nnervous and less likely to give you back your mouse.<\/p>\n
Necessities
\nSome things you should have on hand for general maintenance and first aid
\ninclude: Nolvasan (Chlorhexidine diacetate) for cleaning enclosures and
\ndisinfecting food and water bowls, litter boxes, tubs, sinks, your hands,
\netc. Betadine (povodine\/iodine) for cleansing scratches and wounds. Set
\naside a food storage bowl, feeding and water bowls, soaking bowl or tub,
\neven sponges, to be used only for your snake.<\/p>\n
Enjoy yourselves
\nYou have a companion that will be a part of your life for a great many years
\nif taken care of properly. They should remain alert and active well into
\ntheir old age. The main causes of death of snakes in captivity are directly
\nrelated to their care: improper temperatures, contact with heating and
\nlighting elements, no regular access to water, lack of necessary veterinary
\ncare and treatment, careless handling–all things for which we, as their
\ncaretakers, are directly responsible.<\/p>\n
Places to Go, Things to See and Learn:<\/p>\n
Join your local herpetological society where you can meet other reptile
\nowners, learn more about your ball python, and find an experienced reptile
\nveterinarian in your area. Check your local pet stores and library for these
\nand other python and reptile care books:<\/p>\n
The General Care and Maintenance of Ball Pythons . Philippe de Vosjoli,
\n1990. Advanced Vivarium Systems, Lakeside CA.<\/p>\n
The Completely Illustrated Atlas of Reptiles and Amphibians . Obst, Richter
\nand Jacob, 1988. TFH Publications, Inc. Neptune City, NJ.<\/p>\n
Snakes of the World . Scott Weidensaul, 1991. Chartwell Books, Seacacus, NJ.<\/p>\n
Living Snakes of the World . John M. Mehrtens, 1987. Sterling Publishing Co.
\nNew York.<\/p>\n
[—–] Copyright \u00a9 1995 Melissa Kaplan
\nRepEnvirEd
\n6466 Commerce Blvd #216
\nRohnert Park CA 94928
\nmelissa458@aol.com<\/p>\n
